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yep
obviously, check the fan motor (a) isnt loose on the condenser, and catching on the tub when its runnin or (b) the wires to the motor itself tend to breakaround where theyre cable tied to the heater box
of course, theres always the cold valve to the condenser, thats the usual one tbh
its as easy as unscrewing the fascia at the top of the machine, and fitting it… as long as your sure thats your problem?
its on a magnet on the pcb isnt it?
generally, if youve changed the bulb, and it still aint working, itll need a pcb
f13, often randomly is the ntc, available from the shop at around 5 quid
i have a complete heater box, if you wanna pm me?
well, its a thermistor.. but yeh
and theyre always gong faulty – its on the top (dryer heater box.. it has 2 thin black wires with a plug into it, you really cant miss it
change it and that will probably cure it for you
good luck
lights 1,2 &4 by any chance? (counting from the top down)
the ntc on the dryer is the usual suspect
on the top, on the heater box.. looks a bit like this
http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Washing+ … istor.htmlcheap and easy to repais, with the plug out of course
hope this helps
its on the rear of the TOP oven cavity
more than likely your culprit
its usually around where the lamp holder is
lol
ok, if you open the groove on the seal itself, the plastic rim of the drum goes INSIDE the lip
its a pig if youve never done one, but i dont even take a tool box in anymore, and amu usually out of the house within 15 minutes
where in the country are you?
very possible that the thermostat is faulty, yes, as its the ony thing that controls the temperature in there!
‘EA’ no feed back from baffle
theres a abaffle (valve) in the top of the fridge.. if you look at the top of the inside of the fridge, there will be a vent, the motorized baffle is in there, it will be closed
could be a faulty baffle, a quick continuity test will confirm this, if its ok, then the pcb will be faulty
hope this helps
