[helo_75]

f1 is a motor triac fault

board and eprom required if the motor checks out ok

[helo_75]

my moneys on croatia this time

[helo_75]

unfortuntaely, lights 2 & 4 point to a heater element fault

however, the pcbs on these machines are notoriously unreliable

yet the bit about many bubbles might be a pointer

one thing to try before calling an engineer is to try resetting the anti flood

pull out the dishwasher, and tilt it to 45 degrees to the side, and see if any water comes out, wait 30 seconds, then stand the dishwasher up and try again, it could just be over soaped

hope this helps

[helo_75]

or me

but theres one thing for sure

if adam opened his mouth just a little bit wider, hed get his other foot in as well

thing is, its not our job to be scientists, or implement design criteria for the sake of (as far as WE know) 1 person who really has a beef about it, why has this argument continued?

we advise on things, we’re engineers

if people spent time complaining to the manufacturers, instead of whinging on here, maybe the manufacturers might listen

its almost as good as the fuel protesters on weds, whos protest involved wasting petrol, causing congestion, annoying the general public while gordon brown and his chronies on downing street count the extra money through fuel duty thats being wasted in protest about said thing

grr.. adam, you know how to light the fuse……

cue grannyfixit……….

[helo_75]

f3 is usually down to the ntc fault.. that being said, commonly, the pcb doesnt sense it

the ntc is the sensor on the heater, dependant on variant, the ntc will be in the heater, or on the back of the tub, just above the heater

its wise to check for broken wires first (with plug out, of course)… the ntc is inexpensive ( last price i saw was under a tenner), but experience would sugest the pcb is ast fault, and with that, you’d need an eprom

it will be eiTHer This http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Washing+ … ensor.html

or

this http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Washing+ … 2FNTC.html

a quick look on the back of the drum will confirm which one it is

up to you if you want to try an ntc first, good luck

hope this helps

[helo_75]

thats fine

it wont break, so you wont need me

good luck

[helo_75]

zanussi all the way for me!!!!!!!!

aeg are loosely based on the zanussi anyway, the whirlpools are ok, but the noise levels are higher, and tend to rumble after time

[helo_75]

personally, id go buy a proper machine

harsh though it may sound, these machines are very very unreliable

thing is , its nearly always the board, and as we’ve been discussing the pcb problem, and recently, indesit have changed them , and a lot of engineers arent geared up

its getting more complicated tbh

its your call,although indesit do do fixed price repairs at £89 including all parts and labour, regardless of whats wrong, as long as your machines under 5yrs old, £99 if its over 5yrs old

certainly your cheapest option, but for me, id be looking at other options, such as anything other than hotpoint/indesit

hope this helps

[helo_75]

have you checked the drain hole in the fridge?

[helo_75]

pemguin45?

r u a new member?

[helo_75]

oh and by the way, trying to stop the drum after its started is not a test of a capacitor

the motor will run without the capacitor, once its going

[helo_75]

ill say it again

its cut out for a reason

resetting them in anyway doesnt cure the fault

change the stat kit, check the condenser, and the capacitor

[helo_75]

yup.. pcb failing to sense pressure switch

pressure switch not expensive… its normally the pcb, which would require an eprom, more expensive

hope this helps

[helo_75]

and so it starts…………..

eproms and pcbs are still available and will be until late 2008

[helo_75]

on the bright side… customers wont be messing fitting their own pcb and eprom… just the initial outlay, and youll get more work

[Author]

Posts