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Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Bosch HDN3550GB/02 – Wiring Diagram
Any one?
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Candy GOC 580C-80 – No Heat
I changed the start cap for a no tumble fault which has now been cured, it was only on testing it afterwards that I found the no heat fault.
Martin – are you sure that 2.5lb is large enough?
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool toploader
Funnily enough I had to go and see one today for the same thing.
First thing to check is whether it agitates during wash (drum stays still and central shaft moves backwards and forwards), if it does not agitate then take the motor off and check the 3 piece coupling to the gearbox.
When it drains both drum and agitator should remain still then it should pause for a second before attempting to spin.
Assuming it drains alright then you need to take the case off and have a look at the clutch when it is attempting to spin (put a vertical line on it with a pen to make it easier to see) to see if it is rotating.
If the clutch is rotating then it is either a worn out clutch, brake failing to release or clothing between tub and drum – (bearings are also an option but check everything else first).
If the clutch doesn’t spin then it will be a fault with in the gearbox requiring a new “wheel cog kit”.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Miele WS5406 Brushes and Door Lock
Thank you
Now to give the customer a heart attack at the price…..
jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Smeg FA720X2 Fridge Freezer
If possible try stripping the fan down and cleaning the shaft and bearing as much as possible then rebuild with the slightest touch of grease, it may well work then.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Candy GOC 580C-80 – No Heat
Having been through the machine again today with a fine tooth comb I think it has to be the board but have never known a low start cap take out the board before – I just wish I had functional tested it yesterday before I started the strip down then I could be 110{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} certain that it wasn’t something that I had caused.
I would still appreciate a service manual if anyoune has got one.
Thank you
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: WMA37 board fault
Sounds like a power supply fault on the board – don’t have a board to hand so can’t tell you which component number to check/change but if you can post some photos of the board I will see if I can help.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: ZWF1432W Jumps off suspension every few months.
Check the tacho coil out after it is warm and you will probably find it gives intermittent readings. I had one that was doing exactly as codlets described – sudden kick to spin when full of water then stops dead, no error lights just sets the program lights back to the state they were when you select the program.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Hitachi R-726RVC Defrost timer
Hi Don
Just spoken to them on the phone and they say that it is obsolete and haven’t had one in since 2001 with no replacement part no.
Could I just fit any timer as after all it is just a motorised switch? What about part no 2262284025 – it does seem to have the right connections?
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: bosch dryer
Assuming that no one comes up with anything other than board then I might be able to help you fault find the board if you can provide me with some decent photos of both sides of it.
Jem
March 2, 2013 at 10:33 am in reply to: AEG turbo lavamat 16810 update. Lights/display goes out… #391103Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: AEG turbo lavamat 16810 update. Lights/display goes out.
It is a switch mode power supply chip which you will find fitted to many boards across several manufacturers, it seems to have been replaced by a TNY264GN (not a straight drop in) in later boards.
Jem
February 27, 2013 at 11:01 am in reply to: AEG turbo lavamat 16810 update. Lights/display goes out… #391101Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: AEG turbo lavamat 16810 update. Lights/display goes out.
Will it cut out if you just turn it on but don’t start a program? Assuming that power to the appliance, through the suppressor and selector switch remains constant then this post may help – I know it isn’t the same board but it is the same principle although the power supply chip may be a different number.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: Siemens Electric Oven Not Getting Hot Enough!
I would be having a good look round for dodgy connections, also if you can measure the voltage it the input to the oven when turned on as it will show if there is a bad connection upstream of the oven.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: intergrated dishwasher BFI62
The white one is a relay – You want to change the big blue cap and just behind it in the picture is a little blue cap.
The first one I have put a link to in my repair post, the second should be served by part no 669-0078
(these values are from memory – double check the values before fitting).
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantRe: intergrated dishwasher BFI62
You will need an LCR or ESR meter to be able to test them and the are unlikely to show any visible signs of failure, See this post to know which they are
Jem
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