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Re: BEKO T/D belt change???
Takes about an hour to do, PITA the 1st time but after that it is just a normal pain, If Comet did not change the front bearing housing then it will need to be done or you will get recalls on the belt breaking again.
Post up the model and I will send you the bulletin regarding broken belts.John
Re: Diplomat ADP3620 Oven
It will be on automatic, never trust what a customer says over the phone :rotfl:
If not I have saw the switch contacts go before on these it is usually the contact at the back of the switch which is the live feed from the clock.clock part number is 516021802
Diagram sent via email.John
Re: Diplomat ADP3620 Oven
Hi Jem,
Ther are no cut outs between the clock and the switch so it will either be the clock on auto, the clock’s relay o/c or the oven switch.
PM me your email address and I will send you the diagram.
John
Re: Cannon cooker info needed
It’s a good job the parts are the same then as the rating plate is well gone 😆
Thanks
John
Re: Cannon cooker info needed
Thanks Bob
Looking at the info you sent all 3 versions use the same inner and outer doors but as a matter of interest how do you tell if it is a MK1,2 or 3
John
Re: Cannon cooker info needed
Thanks Bob, How do I tell which version it is, all I have is the model number and serial number 505100060
The customer wrote these numbers on the instruction book when the cooker was new and took the rating plate off the cooker to make sure that it didn’t get lost………….now she has lost it.
John
Re: fisher paykel dd603
If the impellar comes away from the rest of the rotor motor then it is knackered, part number is 525884P
It is possible that the motor housing might be damaged, if it is badly scored inside you sometimes get a problem where the drawer won’t empty fast enough. So once you have the old rotor motor out take the other one from the top drawer and fit it to the bottom to see if it works. If the motor housing is gone you need part number 528042.
John
Re: fisher paykel dd603
It will be the rotor motor at fault, grab the pin at the top with a pair of molegrips and pull hard to get the rest out. Once out use the other motor to check that it works OK.
The bottom motors on these sieze because the customers tend to use the top drawer all the time, simples…. 😆John
Re: whirlpool cooker
As petalpop said it will be the power board, look at this post here as you may be able to repair the old board.
JohnRe: working on gas cookers information
Here is a couple of quotes straight from the
Gas Safe RegisterI quote from technical bulletin 43 dated 25/8/2011
Where an electrical contractor is installing or maintaining electrical components of a gas sytem, e.g. solenoid valves, pumps, time switches, providing this work does not involve disconnection of a gas fitting, i.e. breaking into the gas path or combustion sysytem, registration with Gas Safe Register is not necessary
Also in technical bulletin number 25 dated 10/12/2010 it says,
The disconnection/reconnection ( at the same location ) of a self sealing appliance connector following installation is not deemed “gas work” and therefore may be carried out by non registered person(s), for example, when a home owner temporarily removes the cooker when cleaning. However when any person who is at work, disconnects or reconnects a self sealing connector they must be competent to a level that will ensure that the installation is not allowing gas to escape
AS Lee8 said above there is no need for a non Gas Safe technician to test any part of the pipework and it is not his responsibilty to know if the installation is safe.
John
Re: Hygena Extractor Chimney APP2520
You can check each button on the switch at the front with your meter to rule it out but it will probably be the board on the chimney and here is where it gets to be a pain, you normal have to take the hood from the ceiling to get the cover off. take out the two screws at the top of the cover and then the 4 screws holding the hood to the ceiling bracket, 2 man job.
John
Re: adg7550 854275515820 whirlpool d/w
Most of these Whirlpool dishwashers will have signs of a leak in the base and it might be from a previous problem, if you have checked out all the base components it will probably be the PCB, check carefully as these boards are not cheap :eeek:
IIRC this has a double pole on/off switch, make sure both sides are OKJohn
