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leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Domestic Appliance Testing
Didn’t like that film, “Groundhog Day” much.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Domestic Appliance Testing
I don’t get mine calibrated. I just try it on a selection of resistors from time to time and if the reading is correct that’s enough to put my mind at rest.
Have you tried e-bay? There are some mega deals on s/h testing equipment on there usually. Pun entirely intended. 😳
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Lux EWX14440W stopping in programme
Would suggest checking all heater elements to see if any have dropped below 40 megohm insulation resistance at 500v. This would be enough to give the electronics the jitters.
If you have an account with Connect you can get all the tech stuff via “mediator”. If not, post a request here and someone will send it to you.
Also try this site’s search box, if not yet done.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Creda 17087 1200 spin Will Qualtex ARM20 fit?
Still not used Qualtex online yet. That last one was sorted with a bit rescued from my “scrapheap”. I never quite know what’s in there.
Am now contemplating putting in an order (8O, I say, steady on!) and am wondering how much I need to spend for free delivery. Also what is meant by, “dealer price” as this seems quite a bit cheaper than what appears in my shopping basket? Thankyou for doing qualtex’s provision of information for them (small Grr.).
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: aeg dishwasher
Commonest place for dry joints is around relay legs. Wonder if maybe the repeated tapping cracks the joint eventually :idea:.
Mike.July 12, 2010 at 7:40 pm in reply to: HPT dw FDW60 “end light, red, l/h side flashing, not st #325195leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: HPT dw FDW60 “end light, red, l/h side flashing, no
Hi Jim, thanks for the boring, er I mean interesting, stuff.
Sometimes long for the old days when I used to come home and watch telly :lol:.
st was meant to be … start”
I was absolutely sure it read OK when I previewed it 😕 .
I know because I had to abbreviate other words to get it to fit. Yep, just tried it again. So can confirm that system is allowing four more characters through on preview than are displayed eventually.
Will get on with the reading now. Or maybe later.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Zanussi WJD1667W drier issues.
Could try changing the (green?) solenoid coil anyway. They have a tendency to work for a few mins and then go o/c when they get warmed up. Usually shows an E10 though. 😕
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: diplomat d w reed switch question ?
It’s difficult to check them things that way. Best way is to get a meter with a frequency counter and attach that to the terminals and then let some water in to spin the rotor. Or you can detach a hose and blow through it to spin the rotor.
Failing that, an ordinary battery test lamp. The lamp will flicker faster and faster as the flow of water or air increases.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool AWM049 int. washer
Only thing I’ve ever had of the like was a Zanussi Askoll where the impellor shaft was actually loose inside the magnet of the rotor. But you implied that you have changed the pump so I assume it’s not that.
I assume you’ve had sump and drain hoses off and tipped out any loose coin or colourcatchers.
It’s not impossible for a pump to get a reduced voltage if its supply comes via a relay or a triac and there’s a burnt terminal or dry joint for example. Best way to check would be to try powering it from a seperate mains lead.
One last thought, could there be a blockage somewhere preventing air getting into the top of the drum? Try pulling out soap dispenser?
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool AWM049 int. washer
Wonder if pump is getting full 240v?
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Zanussi ZWS16270W / 914604003 Wont run a program
OK. What about this?
ZWF1440W
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Zanussi ZWS16270W / 914604003 Wont run a program
Madmac wrote:
Changed a very worn set of brushes but still no joyI have a vague memory of someone having this problem and it turning out to be a carbon dust clogged motor.
What happens if you disconnect motor?
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Electrolux EWX14440
It’s worth having pretty much all Lux locks in stock. They’re such a common problem area. Difficult to get any joy when trying to bypass the modern ones which have a solenoid inside.
My money’s on your lock is knacked and has blown the module(s). Look for a slight yellowing around the centre of the light grey plastic of the lock. If you see that, it’s even money you’ve got a BER. Charring builds up carbon around the little round heater inside and you get a direct short live to neutral through that carbon. Just like the old red Hpt locks, except with them you had a good chance of repairing the timer!
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Bosch WAS32466GB/03
I tend to put logical questions like that to one side until I’ve done a full examination. Normal logic doesn’t always work in a system with a malfunction.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: WT741G /2 Burning smell from pcb
Could be a burnt edge connector still making a poor contact and could send the new pcb the same way as the original. Check with magnifying glass.
Mike. -
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