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Re: Hotpoint WDL 540 aborts with options lights flashing
jimca007 wrote: the old ESP warns of an impending recall :oP
Would trust my internal electronics over Merloni’s any day 😆 .
Mike.Re: Whirlpool AWG349/3 Washer Dryer
You must be desperate if you’re having to grasp at such a straw. Not sure how modern your model is but I’d have thought it would give an error code if the ntc went wildly out. What else have you tried? I’d be looking at the drainage arrangement to see if dirty water is syphoning back from the sink waste for example.
Mike.Re: Hotpoint WDL 540 aborts with options lights flashing
Taking the time to write a post about it helped me reason it out. I would have just forgotten about it if I hadn’t seen Allan’s topic! No call-back yet, but I know what I’m taking with me when it comes.
Mike.Re: Belling IDW604 d/w pcb wiring
Got some manuals for those on pdf someone on here gave me. PM your email address and I’ll forward them.
Mike.Re: wdl 520
DDSDDS wrote:
all the options lights super rinse etc flash constantly
bloody stupid hotindesaristpointless machine
This may be the 680uF (on the main board) on its way down.
Read simple pcb repairs sticky.
Mike.Re: Hotpoint WDL 540 aborts with options lights flashing
Went to look at one in a pub this morning which reputedly had been doing just that which you describe. I was thinking maybe the 680uF but couldn’t be bothered getting the board out as that usually makes all the lights flash, I thought.
I thought it might be a partial blockage somewhere as was also reputedly not getting into a spin. Disconnected p sw tube and blew down into it with drum empty and it was quite hard to get air to flow down it. Welded drum, and I could feel that the tube disappears behind front weight. Is there a restrictor in it? Didn’t have time to do any more on it so waiting for the call back.
Was also not responding well to on/off control and door was remaining locked indefinitely when it did switch off.
It’s all making sense now … it is that cap, isn’t it?
Mike.Re: ATAG Cooker Fan Problem
If the customer can’t be persuaded to see sense and go for a new cooker and doesn’t mind paying you handsomely for the time you’ll spend, I would take a look through all your suppliers’ catalogues to see if there’s a similar looking fan motor. Of course there’s lots that will look the same and won’t fit so you need to be sure before laying out any money. Main factors to consider are shaft length, fan diameter and depth, direction of rotation, fixing positions, toc or not, … and that won’t be the end of it.
Unless you stumble on the right one pretty quickly and it’s cheap, it isn’t going to be worth it.
Mike.
PS: Welcome to the madhouse.Re: Zanussi zwd1480w – how to remove the drum pulley
I take a spare bolt along (think it’s a Hpt spider bolt) and screw that into the end of the shaft so the bolt head gets damaged, not the shaft.
If the bearings were as badly shot as it sounds, then the inner race would probably be stuck on the shaft and you would have needed an angle grinder to cut it off, so you missed some fun there.
Mike.Re: Zanussi zwd1480w – how to remove the drum pulley
This task has been discussed a few times in this forum. I did a quick search but so far could only find this one which is mostly about how to get the top springs released http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forumsphpbb3/trade-technical/best-way-get-into-zanussi-tub-middle-split-body-panel-t53151-15.html?hilit=split{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}20cabinet{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}20bearing
Reading it will probably just give you nightmares though 😆 .
Mike.Re: Zanussi zwd1480w – how to remove the drum pulley
Is this one of those with the countersunk allen key / Torx T40 socket bolt holding it on? It’s damned near impossible to get that bolt undone without some percussive accompaniment. I use a sharp centre punch (well actually it’s usually a bit blunt because I forgot to sharpen it from last time) and get the bolt to start moving by first putting a dent in the flange of it, then giving it a few whacks in the anti-clockwise direction. It’s stressful but it will move in the end. You may end up with a bolt that has a rather chewed head on it and have to lay out on a new bolt but ususally it’ll be good enough to re-use. You could also use a small drill to make the initial hole in the flange of the bolt. I’ve never tried a heavy duty wrench like the one you’re thinking of but the difficulty with that will be getting a good enough hold so it doesn’t slip.
Oh, by the way, I once took a Zanussi split tub apart expecting it to be a bearing job as the drum was completely seized and it turned out to be a stone or a screw or something of just that right size stuck between the drum and front. When I split the tub it just fell out on the floor to my surprise.
Mike.Re: Hotpoint DF53 door hinge spring.
Thanks Jim. Will just order the strings then. Hope the weather improves for your trip but I think you should pack your galoshes 🙂 .
Mike.Re: Electrolux website changed
Yeah, I noticed it too. Looks like a step backwards by Lux in the free availability of info. stakes. Has cost me three or four phone calls in the last couple of weeks.
Mike.Re: WFO2467GB/01
I think you’re on the right track with motor/carbons/ ins res. problem. Could be brushes are near finished and have left sufficient carbon dust around to cause a tiny leakage to earth, not big enough to cause alarm on your megger but big enough to cause this symptom. If not, I think there’s something about heater elements and Bosch 1 minute but can’t remember for sure. Either way, looks like you’ll have to haul it out 🙁 .
Mike.Re: Componant ID……
Kind of strange for a resistor to go what is practically short circuit. I wonder if you got the number of bands right. There are sometimes 4 + the tolerance with certain types.
http://www.elexp.com/t_resist.htm
Mike
