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Re: Whirlpool just pumps?
Martin wrote:there’s continuity to each coil mind you, though as it’s one of those tiny connectors with just 3 tags to a double valve I’m unsure at this point what the resistance should be on them anyway? 😕
Take it you mean continuity through each coil. So you checked them with a blue plastic screwdriver with a red led in it? Try again with a meter – they should certainly be 1k ohm plus each and most probably 3.5k. If not I’m on a winner.
Mike.Re: What would you advise?
At a guess the bearing will be a solid bronze one which you will find impossible to source. Give the customer all the info they are capable of understanding and let them make the decision, which is really as much about their finances and beliefs as it is an engineering one. Even if it means they end up buying new they’ll thank you for giving them good advice.
Mike.Re: Troublesome ADP8242
RocketMan wrote: drains water but still times out on draining. ….I’m open to suggestions… 😕 😕 😕
I’d suggest a very close inspection of the drain pump. Impellor could be loose. I’ve even seen a shaft that was loose inside the rotor magnet!
Mike.Re: Whirlpool just pumps?
Have you checked for a short circuit water valve solenoid? (My favourite rare fault.)
Mike.Re: relay supplier
If you’re not sure it’s the relay that’s faulty, you can make up a tester to put DC 12v or 24v (as appropriate) across the coil terminals and use a battery test lamp to see if it works. It’s not an infallible test but will show up a definite dud. If it passes but you’re still suspicious, cut the plastic cover away with a sharp craft knife to reveal the contacts inside. (You can often do all this with the relay left in circuit.) If they look even slightly burnt, it’s worth trying a replacement. Note all logos, numbers and ratings before attacking the old one!
Mike.Re: Smart or Stoopid
Good fun. But whoever compiled the test may not be the best judge of what “smart” means. (That’s the only explanation I can find why some of you scored more than me. 😆 )
Mike.Re: aeg 72630
I would think it sensible to look closely at the ntc if there is one, and heater element and connections and maybe earth leakage before investing in a module. If you haven’t done already.
Mike.Re: Bearing Shell Removal Tool – Now Available
I’m sure it’s a wonderful tool, don’t get me wrong. But when the going gets tough you’ll still need your special chisel/drift and some heat to get a really stuck shell to start moving so don’t leave it at home!
Mike.Re: onn spares
Google make and model as you have given it, take 4th hit down and click translate (Bulgarian), brings up a request for info e-mail form.
Mike.Re: who to work for now
I did a lot of leafletting when I first started. I stuck a couple of peel off labels to each leaflet and I still occasionally see them stuck to machines now, more than ten years later.
It worked in some areas, less so in others. In some of the the posher streets round here, I’ve not ever seen the inside of more than one or two houses. My advice would be, do the council houses and long terraces first to get the work flowing in.
Mike.Re: Bearing Shell Removal Tool – Now Available
From the pics it looks like you’ll need to apply quite a bit of force on that nut and bolt what with the way many shells get stuck in. Think I’ll be sticking with my more tried and tested methodology.
Mike.Re: Zanussi WJS166SW
The older Zanussi modules are very sensitive to relays with partially burnt switch contacts which check out fine on the test bench but don’t do the business in situ. (IME). Could be these new modules have similar sensitivity. Will be interested to know what you find. Wish the bl**dy things were easier to get out of that tight corner!
Mike.
