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Re: Zanussi ZWD12270W

Not yet come across one opening the door for low insulation but maybe that’s what Jem meant by, “very tetchy.” I’ve not had the pleasure of meeting one below 3 Megs yet.
There are some faults, can’t remember which, which are mentioned in the diagnostics schedule as opening the door.
Mike.

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Re: Bosch D/W Motor Problem?

Yup, sounds suspiciously like an o/c coil, although I don’t think I’ve ever come across a Bosch dishwasher thus afflicted myself. (Neither could I say with certainty that I’ve ever found one with a blown motor triac.) Some of them have IIRC, a ptc (start device) that fits onto the motor terminals though; I found one of those blown once.
Mike.

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Re: Miele W806 Dead

There’s usually a full circuit diagram including timer chart tucked in somewhere in every Miele washing machine. Did you find it? Perhaps if you did, you could scan it in and post it up so we can all have a dekko?
Mike.

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Re: Health risk of drying clothes indoors…

Martin wrote:

And to think we as tax payers are paying these organisations to carry out these surveys of the bleedin’ obvious. :rolls:

Are we? Who on earth are the Mackintosh Environmental Architecture Research Unit?
Mike.

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Re: Miele w829 washing machine

You will find you are best destroying the old relay with fine sidecutters before trying to desolder it as it’s nigh impossible to extract otherwise. And as there are one or two tiny tracks below it you have to do that carefully.
Oh and don’t forget to check the suspas. Whilst it can be just a one-off due to an overload / unbalance it can also be that the suspas are done for. It isn’t really noticeable until you remove one and compare it with a new one. Europart were cheapest source last time I looked.
Mike.

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Re: Bosch Neff Half Moon Element Removal

cornwell40 wrote:You bunch o’ southern muppets, it’s like this yer sen.
Flat cap on backerds for easier access(remember…fag out and behind ear for this one…first impressions n’all). WD40 sprayed liberally rounn t’shaft. A cold chisel either side o’t fan and whack ’em with yer bearin’ ‘ammer. Comes out a treat. If it doesn’t charge yer call out and bugger off to’t next un.

Job Dunn.
😉
Larf owt lowd.
Thass ow oi do it pre’y mutch. Cep I ews biss o’ wud sted o’ coal chizles. Ann oi downt smoak or wer a capp.
Mike.

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Re: Miele w829 washing machine

Muv wrote:. And found a post on here bun”incognito” that mentions the motor switching really RK1. On the board, along with the 6.3amp radial fuse…

Thanks
Martin
“bun incognito” Are they tasty, these unidentifiable cakes?

I think this is the older type where you swing open the whole front after removing the 10mm head bolts round the door seal front and undoing the screws at the bottom of the front panel. The whole fascia area stays in place on the swung out front panel and you can then see how to remove it. Pretty sure the W500 series are newer and are as Dave describes. I presume you got to the brushes through the bottom which must have been a bit of a pain. It’s difficult enough with the front open.
Mike.

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Re: Premature Bearing Failure

@madangler1
On the 35mm seal the outer metal ring does revolve in relation to the rest of the seal and there is a layer of grease between them. You can pop the central part out of the metal outer quite easily (and back in again!) and you’ll see it has a system of lips which engage it over the metal outer. Why would they put grease in there if it wasn’t intended to move? And why would it have a similar inner surface to the 30mm seal which you agree does what I said?
I agree it seems too stiff to turn but who knows what happens when it’s installed and things are warmed up and travelling at speed?
I think it may be that it is held firmly between the inner race of the front bearing and the back of the spider when you tighten up the pulley bolt. And, if I’m right, this makes it more critical than ever that you get the outer ring exactly squarely in the housing.
🙂
Mike.

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Re: Premature Bearing Failure

larry wrote: anything which is going to spin inside a metal casing needs lubrication.

Sorry, I didn’t make that clear enough. They are greased at the interface between inner and outer seal – they’re greased there during production. You don’t touch any of that when you’re fitting them, it’s all tucked away out of sight. If you have a look at one of these seals next time you use one you’ll see what I mean. You can turn the inner part in relation to the outer part.
What I was saying was that greasing the interface between the shaft and the seal is probably counter productive as you’re creating a tendency for things to move at a point where they were (I think) intended to stay still.
As to putting grease behind the seal in the space between it and the bearing I can’t say I’ve ever tried it but I do remember reading in Graham Dixon’s book, IIRC, about not overdoing the grease – though I think that was in relation to taper rollers.

I sometimes wonder whether the bleed hole is a good idea or not. Zanussi don’t use one. It obviously allows water to get away but not fast enough. I think they should make another one at the top so the air can get in and the water out. Would need to prevent water getting in the motor obviously.
Mike.

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Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required

lee8 wrote:
How many calls do people on here get from PAT companies referring appliances such as D/W etc etc in office kitchens with Earth Faults 😉

I’ve never had any.
Probably in that environment anything faulty just gets automatically chucked.
Slightly off-topic, I went into a public library once, when on a camping holiday, and asked if I could use an electrical socket to charge up my camcorder battery whilst I used a computer. Librarian looked at scruffy old me and said, “I’m afraid we couldn’t risk plugging in anything which hasn’t been safety tested.”
Mike.

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Re: Premature Bearing Failure

The WMA seals (both 35mm and 30mm types) are different. This was pointed out to us by Phidom a couple of years back. They have an inner part which revolves inside an outer part. (It’s very stiff to move when new so you wouldn’t know about it. Maybe it moves more easily once it gets going.) The part that makes contact with the shaft isn’t supposed to revolve against the shaft.
Thus you can put a bit of debor on the (cleaned and degreased) part of the shaft that contacts the seal and it shouldn’t matter about the pitting caused by corrosion. If you grease the seal you’ll be over-riding the intended function and inviting early failure.
Mike.

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Re: Premature Bearing Failure

Not sure if larger bearings help. 6207 seems to be a particularly common failure in Lux and Hotpoint even when the speeds were only 1000. Although that wasn’t always “premature.”
Mike.

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Re: kenwood kdw4ttsl

I wouldn’t want to encourage anyone to waste their time repairing one of these diabolical contraptions but well, in it’s favour, the spares seem to be very cheap (and many in stock) at Connect.
Mike.

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Re: Ind. IS70C heater – which one? C00282396 or C00281561?

Yeah, I thought it would be the older one judging by the state of it. Newer connector version was the cheaper IIRC.
Mike.

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Re: AEG Washing Machine

Home page, left hand menu, washing machine, AEG, choose or type in model and that should get you in. With model be aware you can get LAV*** etc. or just L*** with some others.
Mike.

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