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Re: Hotpoint CTD80P – Can’t get recirculating fan off
If its the fan next to the belt get a long screwdriver and lay it along the motor pushing against the back of the fan, tap gently with hammer rotating it every few taps.
It will come off that way t, if the spindle rusts a bit they can stick and be very tight.
Don’t hit it to hard as you will go through it.
Re: Hotpoint WMA spin speeds
Those boards are programmed by the front control panel to select the model, in theory of the models are the same and parts are the same eg motor and board ten programming it to the other model would result in higher spin speed
Would have to check a few things on part finder first though.
Re: Hotpoint WMUD962 – no fill
Its not the tilt that causes it from my experience its the blockage its self, I tilt these relight back every day with and with out water in and never get a problem, I only ever see this when its been blocked and the blockage it removed manually.
Its an odd issue to be sure.
Re: Tapatalk Installed
I’m getting API expired when ever I use Talktalk, guessing an update is needed on the server
Re: Hpt t/d – AQCF532BI – Belt fitting
Normally I rotate the pulley forward but it can be tight if your not used to it,
If your struggling their is a second method, first the new belt will be very tight try and stretch it by standing in it and give it a good pull, will make your life a bit easier, remove the side and remove the front fan and cover, replace the jockey wheel and fully fit it to the motor, best way to swap the belt is down the back of the drum but I always take it out TBH to have a good clean and check the front bearings, remove the heater cover and heater, remove the rear fan, once the fan is off their are 4 bolts the hold the motor in just in the duct, remove these and now you can rotate the motor, place the belt over the motor shaft and rotate the motor and jockey wheel back , you will find you can just slip the belt over now, with a screwdriver in the motor between where the front and rear housings meet rotate it forward until the 4 rear bolt holes align and refit and it came apart
Re: Hotpoint WMUD962 – no fill
The problem is that on the Original Arcadia electronics with the new pressure switch system the electronics does not calibrate the switch at the start of each cycle and seems to get stuck thinking its full,this normally only comes to light after an blockage, no matter what you do it won’t reset, the only way Iv found to resolve it is to reprogram the board and it works fine, I had literary done hundreds of these when I worked for HP,
I believe the new version 2.75 they have changed it so that at the start of every cycle it resets the empty position after pumping out
Re: Advice needed – Safety Issue!
Does look like an issue around those two cables. The pink and brown ones.
That’s the area the new modification is done in.
Even though it should not happen its a very odd fault that only seems to happen after a large period of time. Its not something that jumps out at you as a massive design issue,Iv go to say though still don’t understand why people put these one and go out though, its asking for something to happen.
Re: FF200 Defrost Modification
Does this have the module on the rear or in the top ? as their is another mod for evaporator over freezing, has to be reprogrammed though that one.
These are very problematic units.
Lost of problems with ice building below the evaporator and in the gutter or the evaporator frosting over, if its ice below the evap then the bigger defrost heater and stick on gutter heater can help.
If its the evaporator frosting heavily then its likely the evap NTC has failed, normally its the one with the little plastic cap that come loose and goes up the NTC wireing allowing moisture in, if this is the case the front mounted module version can be modified by cutting the sensor wires and reprogramming the module to ignore it.
If its the rear module version then their is no fix.
Re: Htp Aqualtis AQ9D69U
It thinks its full. Likely had a blocked pump and its been removed. Try the reset procedure of fill it with 2L of water and let it pump out.
I have found quite a few of these get stuck and the only way I have found to reset them is to reprogram the EPROM.
Re: Noisy hotpoint AQGD 169S
Unfortunately its a sealed drum on that model, whole tank has to be changed.
Not cheap, part its self is at least £140. Some one here can give the price
Re: One Man Crusade
HP are replacing the whole pcb with a brand new modified version that has a block connector to the board rather than the two separate spade connectors for the heater, the ends on the harness are cut off and crimped to the new one with 2 x blue and 1 x red crimps.
No soldering is being performed on existing boards by hotpoint, their should also not be any soldering as they have pulled back all the irons.
If its anything other than this I’d would suggest some one else has been messing about with it, they are taking this part very seriously and engineers are not o deviate from the modification in any way. Stackable offence I believe.
The fire problem is related to these connectors I believe.
