[neon_3SP_glow]

No Dave, no pictures. I did visually inspect the board and didn’t see anything obvious.

[neon_3SP_glow]

More info from the customer (as machine has always spun ok when I’ve visited to take a look)…

When it doesn’t spin, the drum will feel loose, or slippy. Rotating the drum will eventually cause it to click, or lock into position, it will subsequently spin.

The customer has been all over YouTube and wants me to replace the clutch. But, this ‘stuck in neutral’ seems more plausible to me.

If the clutch was at fault, wouldn’t the no spinning be more frequent and/or tied to heavier load sizes etc?

Very unsure how to proceed!!

[neon_3SP_glow]

This was my first thought, but upon visit, the lid switch behaved perfectly and wasn’t close to being on the edge of on/off.

It’s something intermittent.

Will give it a good check over on Monday and see what else I find.

I’ve also had one of these in the past where the pressure system got blocked (had to use a wire coat hanger and scrape it clear), but cant remember if the fault was overfilling/flooding or the opposite.

[neon_3SP_glow]

Hello Dave.

I’m scheduled to visit again on Monday, but got some further info from the customer.

I asked them to try varying load sizes to see if it made a difference.

They’ve said it didn’t, and that there doesn’t seem to be any correlation between load size and the machine not spinning. They said on all occasions where the cloths have been ringing wet at the end of the program it has drained the water. Also, sometimes, it will start the cycle, fill up and then stop. Opening and closing the lid will cause it to carry on normally.

[neon_3SP_glow]

Thank you Dave.

Of course, if the motor doesn’t turn the machine wont empty as the drain impeller is attached to the motor shaft! Doh!

I’m planning on returning tomorrow to take another look.

If the gearbox is over filled? Do you just drain it and carry on? Or will the gearbox need replacing too?

Sorry for my ignorance, I only work on these very occasionally as there are not many still about.

Tahnks again.

[neon_3SP_glow]

electrofix wrote: well why did you repair it
a couple of fan belts to the drum pulley from the v10’s and it will spin better than ever lol

Dave

And who needs a washing machine on a yacht anyway? Surely, you just hang ya Speedo’s overboard for a few minutes once a week?! 😀

[neon_3SP_glow]

SOLVED

QER Repair successful and machine powering on and working as per normal.

Many thanks for the help in this thread.

[neon_3SP_glow]

Can’t speak highly enough of QER.

Apparently, they’ve repaired it and will have it in the post to me tomorrow. Very good.

Fingers crossed for when I go back to fit it.

The machine is located into the yachts engine bay, with two massive Ford V10’s!

[neon_3SP_glow]

Thanks Dave.

I’ve taken the easy option and sent it to QER. My knowledge of circuit board components leaves a lot to be desired!

Really appreciate your help though.

[neon_3SP_glow]

Thanks for the reply again Dave.

Let me see if I can upload a picture of it here. I’m using chaptgpt AI to identify the resister and it’s saying:

The resistor color code you’ve described suggests that the resistor may be non-standard or there could be an error in the description of the color bands. Typically, a resistor will have bands that help determine its resistance value, with the last band often indicating the tolerance (how much the resistance value can vary).

Here’s a quick breakdown of standard resistor color coding:

1. First Band: Represents the first significant digit.
2. Second Band: Represents the second significant digit.
3. Third Band (if present): Represents the multiplier.
4. Fourth Band (if present): Represents the tolerance.

Commonly, resistor color bands do not include silver except in the multiplier or tolerance bands. Let’s try to interpret based on a possible misdescription:

• Yellow: 4
• Silver: Typically used as a multiplier (x0.01) or in the tolerance band.
• Black: 0
• Red: x100 multiplier or 2{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} tolerance.

Given this, and considering standard interpretations, it’s likely there might be an error in observing the bands. For a more accurate interpretation, please double-check:

• The order of the bands.
• The total number of bands.
• The exact colors and their sequence.

If the resistor is indeed as described, it might be a special or custom type, not following the standard coding. In such cases, consulting the washing machine’s service manual or contacting the manufacturer for specific part information would be the best approach.

[neon_3SP_glow]

Great, thank you Dave.

Can you please confirm that the ‘In rush’ safety Resister is the 2RP100 resister (slightly bigger than the others on the board, about 9mm long)?

This (2RP100) is the only other component which is clearly blown.

Cheers.

And also, were do you get the components from? Presumably you buy a packet of 10 etc?

Thanks for your help again, as always.

Daniel

[neon_3SP_glow]

Thanks for the reply.

The element which I tightened too much was damaged. The bracket which the bolt squeezes the rubber with had gone ‘v’ shaped and some of the rubber had cut/split.

Fitted a new one, being mindful not to tighten too much, but enough that the element couldn’t wobble vertically.

[neon_3SP_glow]

Update:

Element was fine. Both NTC’s checked out at room temp ok.

No airflow issues.

I wonder if customers accidentally covered inlet vents behind the lid.

Fitted new cycling stat and TOC, all seemed fine.

Cheers

[neon_3SP_glow]

Thank you Dave, very insightful.

[neon_3SP_glow]

No, inverter motors. it’s only a couple of years old and has two pulleys on the back of the tub, rotates the drum in two sections in opposing directions.

Full of module boards.

Going to refer her to Samsung.

Thanks for the reply Dave, much appreciated.

[Author]

Posts