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Re: NEF B1421 OVEN
Penguin45 wrote:You can get them through UKW by mailing spares@ukwhitegoods.co.uk with the part numbers, for a similar price.
We need the money to keep the site afloat, after all. 😀
Penguin45.
fair do’s , oh flightless one. It was only because he said he couldn’t find them on the site……my apologies 8)
The two hinges are the same part numbers as above – 096784 and 096785 but these are BSH ( Bosch ) part numbers – ring 08448928921 to order spares – approx £13 Per hinge
Its not too difficult a job if you have some basic DIY skills – Remove the door from the oven and then undo the screws on the door to release the outer and inner door panels , revealing the hinges .Check out the parts finder on the BSH website for your oven and you will see an exploded view of the door . This should explain everything pictorially
First thing i’d be looking at is the heater element mate. An open element on these can add approx another 90mins to the cycle
I’d also check all the chips on the control module to make sure a faulty valve hasn’t taken out its control chip. If you look at all the microchips closely , you may see one with a corner of its top blown off……and if it is , you’ll need a new module as well.
HOWEVER….it does have the level float in the sump base to sort out the water level. Take out the filter and its at approx the 4 o’clock position under a small grey cover. . It’ll probably be all gunged up and not lifting properly hence the overfill
Its a drain problem. I’d be checking pump , drain hoses and especially the pressure chamber at the rear of the tub .
If i remember , they are a sealed unit . Unless there is something obvious ‘blocking’ the flow meter , you’d probably be better off replacing it to avoid a callback.
Check to see if it has an ‘impellor jug’ inline with the inlet hose . A classic fault sympton one of these will cause a continual
fill/empty/fill/empty cycle .EDIT Ok , having just checked , you will probably need part number 607138. It is a flow rate meter and is the small white cylinder connected to the bottom of the water matrix on the LHS. You may find the impellor inside is jammed .
Re: Bosch SRS43E02GB problem – stops mid cycle with no power
TobyD wrote:Thanks nomadPaul, and before I spend nearly £90 for a replacement (part number 49 3323 shown at https://www.bosch-eshop.com/eshop(bD1lbiZjPTAwOQ==)/bosch/gb/prodp.htm?prod=SGS45E08GB{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}2f45&ESHOPTYPE=S ) is there any way I can confirm it is that part – maybe a test which isolates this as the actual problem?
TobyD
Unfortunately Toby , we are restricted to how much info on specific testing that we are allowed to post. We cannot promote live testing by general members of the public .OK , before you do anything with the PCB , the most common fault that causes this is the appliance not heating. Search on here for Bosch dishwasher not heating and you’ll find plenty of info on the possible causes .
I’d be checking water levels first . Does it make a funny noise like klerdunk klerdunk klerdunk as it initially fills? It could be something as simple as a blocked hose that needs clearing .
You have to go into the test programme to reset this error….but if it re-occurs then its a new PCB i’m afraid .
TBH Toby , it sounds like a main control module failure.
The anti-flood switch is normally a microswitch located in the pressure chamber located on the left hand side behind the side panel. Its operated when the polystyrene float in the base lifts the red arm to operate the switch. However , the consequence of this is that if the appliance is turned on , the pump will be continually running , normally even with the door open.If you believe all power to be present and yet you’re still not getting any kind of display/lights lit on the control panel then i’d be looking at the control module
The 5 second spin that the appliance does….is it a fairly quick whizz round , like a sudden start rather than a controlled start to the spin?
The problem could be the tacho on the motor not sending a signal to the PCB. I’ve seen this a couple of times.You will have to find the source of the water leaking into the base . First thing i would check , seeing as the machine has recently been moved , is the cold water inlet hose connection at the back to see if that is leaking. If it hasn’t been fitted tight enough , it can leak and the water drips from the hose connection onto a small ledge which then runs into the appliance base.
If you want to empty the water from the base , MAKE SURE APPLIANCE IS UNPLUGGED and tilt it forward slightly. The water should run out onto the floor from under the front edge
vokeyuk wrote:
i did try that and no draining at all, the only way to drain it is to do it maually, bugger!! thanks though, looks like an engineer or a new one
Can you hear the pump trying to drain or does it just hum/buzz ?
If , on a drain cycle , its trying to pump then its probably a blockage in the drainage system ?
If , on a drain cycle , its not making any noise ( or its making a hum/buzz ) then either there’s a blockage in the pump itself or the pump has died . If this is the case , undo the circular fluff filter at the bottom right corner and look inside it . You should see the impellor at the back. Check this for obstructions using a torch and i mean have a real GOOD look as something may be behind the impellor .
