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it could be the drain hoses are blocked causing a slow drain problem.
The machine will allow 6 mins to drain before it stops and shuts down. On the occasions when it hasn’t drained fully on the rinse cycle , did you get any flashing lights on the display ? These can indicate a fault display and may well be in your instruction manual .
The water levels are quite different between the wash and rinse cycles so it may be draining the water on the wash cycle within the 6 minute limit but the rinse level may be just too much.
To test this , switch the machine on and start it on a cotton cycle – wait until the machine has filled properly ( or just wait 3 mins ) and then switch to ‘drain’ . It should , in proper condition , drain within about 20 – 30 secs ( you will hear the tone of the drain pump change ) If it takes considerably longer , then a drain hose blockage or weak pump will be the probable cause .
With the install kit , there should have been two biggish screws/bolts . These fit into a hole just above the feet and when screwed in , tension the door spring assembly . It is all done from the front as its clearly accessible . Does the customer still have the installation sheets as it should be shown on there ?
On the instructions , it may say the words ‘up to Kl xx , carry out the modification. ‘
The Kl refers to the number after your ENr model number which in your case is the /42 at the end of the model number . If the instructions say , for example , ‘up to Kl 45’ , you would have to do the mod . If it said ‘upto Kl 38’ then the mod is not needed .
Edit : Have just re-read your post . As its says up to Kl12 , you won’t need to do any mod
There is no drain hole in the fridge on these models as the cooling of the fridge is provided by cold air being blown up the rear housing that you pointed out and not by refridgerant pipes in the rear wall.
The water you are finding may be condensation forming . Check the fridge door seal . Also , have you been getting any ice build up in your veg containers or at the base of the rear cover ? There may be cold air escaping from the bottom edge of the cover which could be causing problems . Although the rear cover has many vents in it , only the very top vent should actually have cold air coming out of it. The rest are covered by a polystyrene block .Re: Bosch Dishwasher Check Water Light problem
sanjeev wrote:Thanks for your prompt reply Penguin45 and gegsy. .
Before I do that, and reading gegsy advice, where is the impeller jug located on this machine, where can I buy it from and steps of replacing it.
If you look at Penguins pic , it’ll be connected to the bright blue hose on the left hand side .
POWER OFF IF YOU ARE TO INVESTIGATE
do members of the public have the code of numbers /letters that have to be entered on logging in ? I’m sure this would stop the robots finding their way in here .
first thing to do is a good defrost – empty fridge and freezer and switch off , leaving doors open , for 48hrs . Switch back on and see if it cures the fault.
Re: Bosch KGU3220gb/03
franz wrote:Thanks Paul – think I did see an orange build up- wiil go back and check
Franzthats the stuff !!! Its an orangey/opaque jelly like substance – I remove the drain tube , flush it out and clean with some bleach and then i wrap the clear tube in black electrical tape . Replacement hose’s are now black to block out light as it seems this might be a cause of the gungey build-up and tape is a cheaper/quicker option.
check the drain tube at the back for a build up of ‘jelly/gunge’ . The drain tube gts a bacterial growth build up which prevents defrost water from draining and the standing water then freezes in the drain hole/freezer base.
have you put the drain impellor cover back on ? it won’t drain without it fitted !
….and i belive its an SGS 5342GB 🙂
If you remove the control module from the appliance ( behind / under control panel ) check the integrated chips on the board and look to see if one of them has a section of its ‘top’ blown away .
The reason they suggest you check the filter is that if the appliance doesn’t drain completely , it won’t spin.
The sympton of this would be the drum still full of water. From your description , i’d definitely suggest it was the carbon brushes as advised by my flightless friend above 🙂
Has it been making a loud scraping/crackling sound of late ? This is also a sign of wearing brushes.I would suggest that the water is not being pumped from the pump to the container.
The 1st check would be the hose/cap connection that feeds into the top of the water container . These can get blocked by small bits of fluff .Then i’d go with WVM’s suggestion . Check the sump/pump area for fluff build up or something stuck in the drain pump impellor .
There is a very small channel at the rear right of the pump area that gets blocked too.Get the customer to remove the condensor block and check to see if the area at the rear of the condensor is full of water . This is a sure sign that something is stopping the pump from transferring the water from the pump/sump area up to the water container.
Re: Bosch SGS5312 “undead”
brokenbosch wrote:Okay. I opened her up (power disconnected, of course). I pulled the control board out from under the facia on the door and took ot out of its plastic box to find a pin for one of the relays was black and part of the PCB burned away. I re-made the joint and tested continuity. Good joint. But then I noticed a little 16 pin IC at the bottom of the board has also blown its top.
Nevertheless I put it all back together and powered her up. No change to the situation 🙁
So next question – can anybody tell me the part number, where I can get one and how much it’s likely to cost me – for a new control board. And is it worth it? This thing is nearly 10 years old!Many thanks again.
Paul…As well as the module , there will be another component faulty if the chip has had its lid blown off. You would have to find out what else was wrong or your new £120 module will go pop just like the original !!!
