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Sounds like the heating element has gone open circuit . The appliance is waiting for the water to heat , whilst still counting down so you get to the cycle time end but the machines still waiting.
you will need to check the resistance of the element – It should be approx 23m – 30 ohms.
Power off if checking yourself
If you have a longish bottle brush , you’ll find the access to the other end at about the 7 o’clock position in the central sump indside the dishwasher. If you remove the filters etc from the centre of the base , you’ll find a smallish hole bottom left , if you’re looking directly down into the central recess.
If you want to remove the hose entirely , you’ll need to remove decor door , door panel and lower base plate panel.
Power off if you go either route.
HiMArk , according to my info , there’s 3 possible brush numbers for these machines depending on motor model.
The 3 possibilities i can see are :
Ceset 151613
Sole 154071
Simens 154072 now changd to 165171
You could try BSh spares on 08705543210 to check on stock
Mike , how positive are you that it was ‘completely’ defrosted ? These machines can sometimes require a good 48hr defrost with the door open to ensure that all the ice right to the back wall is cleared. It doesn’t need much ice to remain and cause a re-curring fault.
you can’t check/test the capacitor….its a dangerous piece of kit. Just check the movement of the baldes/fins in the motor casing .
Solid – motor/sealing kit
Easily moving – may need new capacitor
good luck !!!
There could be another cause….a faulty start capacitor. With the power off , and the RHS panel off , look into the end of the motor. You should see a set of ‘fins’ inside the motor housing. These should turn relatively easily . If they turn freely , it could just be the start cap thats faulty.
Although from your description , my feeling would be that the sealing kit has leaked and allowed water into the motor and corroded it to such an extent that the bearings have seized . It will prob require a new motor and sealing kit – Not cheap !!! and a difficult replacement job
My first step would be to check the pressure chamber and fill hose on the LHS . You may find them really gunged up.
Check out Penguins photo’s on this thread http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … ic&t=37822
Mark , as Penguin sayd , you’re practically there . Get a big flat headed screwdriver and insert it between the motor and rear tub just behind where you took the two big bolt screws out from the back . It’ll just need levering off…..
One point , when you remove the brushes , make a note of which edge went on what side as they will be slanted .
Re: 08/09-Football Season
Penguin45 wrote:
Penguin45 wrote:
2-1 to Stoke seem reasonable?Spot on………. :rolls:
A bloke looked over the fence at Spur’s training ground and saw them playing football with a hedgehog.“O!” he shouted, “I’m going to phone the RSPCA.”
“Not now mate” replied the hedgehog, “I’m 3-0 up.”
Baddum, tish……
:p45:
A friend of mine is a Spurs season ticket holder and he’s been so disgusted by their recent displays that last night he lost it completely , stormed outside his house and in a fit of temper , nailed his season ticket to a tree.
Came out this morning and some sod had nicked the nail !!!
😆
Re: Bosch SGS43E02 poor cleaning performance – I read the FA
Presuming your using detergent , rinse aid AND salt , then the first thing to check is water levels .
Let the machine fill and start washing . After apporox 5mins , pop the door open and check the level of water in the base . It should just about cover the whole base , reaching the bottom edge of the salt. If it doesn’t then you probably have a blocked pressure chamber/fill hose . Does it make any strange ‘kledunking’ noises as it fills , may sound like the pump switching on and off during the first couple of minutes during the fill cycle ?
From your pic , the pressure chamber is on the bottom right corner , with the switches on it . It will certainly need cleaning out…( If you can . Us Bosch engineers tend to replace them )….and there is a ribbed hose , emerging from the bottom right hand corner of that pressure chamber that goes round the bottom edge of the front of the machine into the sump. You’ll probably find that very well sludged up too.
Its actually a very good pic with which to explain the fault probs. The water flows through the water inlet matrix ( the tall item on the left ) through the pressure chamber through the ribbed hose into the base.
If the ribbed hose is blocked , water backs up and this causes the pressure chamber to think its full of water and therefore stop any more water entering. This is why you get low water levels and no heating. This ‘backing-up’ may also cause the red ‘barrel’ to rise , which operates the drain pump and so can pump some of the already filled water out.
Also , the blue arm is the level switch so with all the gunk in the pressure chamber beneath it , this can also cause false readings and low water levels.Clean out the pressure chamber and ribbed hose and i reckon you’ll be hot to trot !!
Please power off before carrying out any work
p.s Penguins are so much more succinct than wanderers 8)Sounds like a heating problem. If the appliance doesn’t heat the water , either on wash or rinse , it will continue to count down to 1 and then seemingly ‘stick’ at this number.
There are normally 3 possible reasons and i’ll list them in order of possibilty –Low water levels caused by blocked pressure chamber/fill hose.
Blown heater relay on main PCB
Faulty Instantaneous Water Heater.
Does the appliance make any ‘kledunking’ noises as it fills ? After running for approx 5 mins , there should be enough water in the base to reach the bottom edge of the salt pot lid. If you can’t see that amount of water , then option 1 is your most likely reason.
The reason it sometimes has a much longer start time is that it initially works off the total cycle time from the previous wash. So , if the last wash had the no heating fault , its wash time would have been extended and this would have transferred to the beginning of the next cycle selected.
Re: Bosch Dishwasher SGS434A42GB not draining/overfilling
Martin wrote:This model doesn’t use the Impellor Jug device but has a magnetic float instead. 😉
Ah , you spotted my well placed trap Martin 😳
Have got so used to the grey base DW’ with impellor jug probs that i failed to checked the parts list .
Apologies Derek
Derek , the most common problem that causes this fault is a faulty flow meter . It is a small ‘wheel’ that measures the speed of flow of water entering the machine thus telling the control module how long it should keep the inlet valve open to allow X litres of water in. When it goes wrong , the appliance gets false information on flow rates and therefore you get overfilling probs.
Part No is 424099 – impellor jug and is situated in-line with the main water inlet hose , between the rear inlet valve and the LHS water matrix. Its a small white cylindrical object.
