Phidom

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Viewing 15 posts - 241 through 255 (of 1,873 total)
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  • in reply to: whiteknight cl787 tumble dryer not heating #316889
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: whiteknight cl787 tumble dryer not heating

    There is another thermostat in the front low down in the machine which is not so easy to get at. The heater wires have plugs on the ends and are unplugged in the interior of the machine if the heater ever needs to be changed.

    in reply to: HPT new belt fitting tool #316861
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: HPT new belt fitting tool

    Hmmmmm, I could probably make one of those. Where on the machine do you rest the hooked end?

    in reply to: Bosch WFX3267 Fabric Softener not fully clearing #316847
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: Bosch WFX3267 Fabric Softener not fully clearing

    The tube is meant to be a loose fit in order for the syphon to work. If the tube and the corresponding passage in the drawer are clear of blockages it should drain.

    in reply to: USB Record Decks #315539
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: USB Record Decks

    Most modern stereos don’t have a proper phono input, which needs to be quite sensitive (about 5mV) and have RIAA equalisation. The pre-amp I bought does have an analogue output which I have used in my LG DVD recorder / hard drive machine. Doing it that way worked OK but the levels were a bit low. It just means you have to turn the volume up on the hifi when playing these recordings. The LG also has a USB socket which also needs to be connected to power up the pre-amp. The LG does not recognise the pre-amp though so it won’t accept the digital input.

    in reply to: Van Insurance Rip Off #316632
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: Van Insurance Rip Off

    I’m with Direct Line. I had something similar a couple of years when at the front of a 3 car shunt. I did have protected NCB so I don’t know if that made a difference but Direct Line handled it all with the minimum of fuss. I didn’t get a loan vehicle though so perhaps it would have been worthwhile doing it through the 3rd (or 4th?) party insurer.

    in reply to: Hotpoint Aquarius wf240 #316598
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint Aquarius wf240

    First check if the tub joint is held together with screws, if not you can’t change the bearings. They are not too bad to do. Basically you remove the cabinet front, remove concrete blocks, motor, hoses , shock absorbers etc from the outer tub and lift the tub out through the front. You remove the screws and split the tub so you can lift (or knock) out the inner drum. Then it’s just a case of drifting or pressing out the old bearings and reversing the procedure to rebuild.

    in reply to: Siemens EH 775501 E Induction Hob #316495
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: Siemens EH 775501 E Induction Hob

    I don’t know. It’s not for me but for someone on another electronics forum.

    in reply to: Hotpoint BWD20 Leaking at back of Drum #316180
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint BWD20 Leaking at back of Drum

    A new outer tub is available, part No. C00201823. As this is an integrated machine it may be cost effective to do this if required.

    in reply to: indesit WG1185 WG – no wash or spin #316292
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: indesit WG1185 WG – no wash or spin

    The dire warnings were mainly for other people who read these forums and may not be as clued up as yourself. I have now edited out the funtional motor test advice, just in case others are tempted to have a play!

    in reply to: indesit WG1185 WG – no wash or spin #316289
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: indesit WG1185 WG – no wash or spin

    Post edited to remove functional test information.
    You should be able to check the motor without resorting to the above method, just using a multimeter on ohms. The field coil should read about 1 ohm, the brushes about 3 ohms and the tacho coil is usually several hundred ohms. There will also be a thermal cutout in the motor which should read as short circuit and may be the cause of the trouble. You sometimes need to dismantle the motor to work out which wires go to the TOC.
    Another possibility is a burnt out triac in the speed control circuit board.

    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: best way get into zanussi wm tub w/ middle split body pa

    I meant the Jetsystem hose that clips to the side and front of the cabinet before entering the top of the door seal. I leave it connected as it has a crimped hose clip at the door seal end but with it unclipped from the cabinet you can still place the tub behind the machine for further dismantling.

    in reply to: Creda 37760 T/D #316195
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: Creda 37760 T/D

    Thanks Martin, another BER then 😥

    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: best way get into zanussi wm tub w/ middle split body pa

    iadom wrote:

    I use a heavy duty piece of nylon cord, slip it round the spring, sit on the floor and push with my feet against the cabinet/crosspiece whilst pulling on the cord.

    All sounds a bit undignified to me. 😉 I mostly take the whole machine to the workshop for bearing jobs but sometimes there is a queue of machines in there so there would not be room to have the machine on its front. Also, with the Jetsystem models I leave the tub attached to its umbilical hose, I don’t know if that would reach if the machine was on its front.

    in reply to: Is it me OR I’m missing something #314839
    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: Is it me OR I’m missing something

    I find the worst places are the flats given to the eastern European contract workers. They come furnished but only with the bare minimum of stuff, no luxuries like buckets or washing up bowls. There are usually a couple of saucepans but they probably already contain cooked food for that evenings meal.

    Phidom
    Participant

    Re: best way get into zanussi wm tub w/ middle split body pa

    wilf wrote:Im with Madmac keep it upright two bits of wire through the springs pull up then lower it down easy!!!!!!!!!

    wilf

    Same here. Have mentioned this before but if you slide a 13mm ring spanner over the pointy end of the suspension pin it pushes in the retaining tab just enough to release it without permanently deforming it. You can then just pull the pin out with pliers.

Viewing 15 posts - 241 through 255 (of 1,873 total)