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Hopefully just bad connections, possibly at the PCB end. A fine fiberglass pencil works wonders for cleaning oxidation from the contacts.
What was wrong with the original valve ?, Is the valve being powered when it should ? If not, have you checked the harness & PCB connections etc.
Don’t sweat it buddy, truth be told we’ve all been caught out by dumb things like that & ended up kicking ourselves;).
Be glad you looked before buying a new pump, a good bright torch is essential when working on appliances.Forgot to ask earlier: Have you checked that You’ve got good water flow into the machine and through the inlet valve ?. Without good input then you won’t get a good signal from the flow sensor.
The UK version of the clock would obviously run at our mains frequency, i.e 240v 50 Hz whether it would be a straightforward swap is anyone’s guess.
Unfortunately I tend to agree with you, it would suggest that you have a controller fault inside. You may find a local Electronics shop to look at it for you but it’s likely to be costly. Maybe time to treat yourself to a new one
.Hi: Is this plugged into a normal socket ?. If so then the first thing to check would be the plug for any signs of loose connections or overheating, also try plugging into a different socket. They’d be the simplest user checks, unfortunately with an induction hob there’s not really anything user serviceable inside I’m afraid.
Flow sensors normally work on 5v DC & would have 3 connections, usually the outer 2 connections are the 5v supply and the middle connection is a Square wave output back to the control pcb. The DC supply is easy enough for you to check with your meter, but to check the output you need a good analogue multimeter or preferably an oscilloscope. You would really need to check that at the control end for the Square wave and the sensor for the 5v. For reliable sensing the output needs to be at a stable 5v.
Ok, I was talking about plugs & connections to the control PCB more specifically for high resistances or open circuit. Not shorts to ground.
Wouldn’t it have been a lot cheaper, easier to call an Engineer in the first place ?. It would probably have been a lot more cost effective.If you have the correct resistance through the heater it should heat when powered. Please don’t run power to it there’s no need to do that and you’ll probably kill the heater.
Reading what you’ve written, you seem to have thrown an awful lot of parts at the machine but don’t seem to have checked the simpler things such as bad connections especially to the PCB or Damaged / faulty wiring especially in any door harness.
