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There are ‘universal’ ones available – eg https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/d319377-universal-ptc-relay – but I don’t know how easy they are to fit or how ‘universal’ they really are.
An indicator light burning out is unusual as they only draw a tiny current. I’d say things are getting far hotter up top than they should be and that certainly points to the cooling fan itself or its thermostatic switch.
If Miele still offered 5 and 10 year warranties I would seriously consider their washing machines but the price differential with other brands is just too much when only 2 years are offered. This is especially true as if it does fail out of warranty you are pretty much forced to use Miele’s expensive parts and technicians to resolve the issue.
To put my cards on the table, when my machine recently failed I decided to chance a cheap Beko as I’m just not convinced you get what you pay for in the more expensive machines. Unfortunately the first machine failed after two weeks (drum hitting door seal) but was replaced without question. The replacement has so far proved fine 8 months in so I’m putting the first down to an unfortunate early life failure.
In terms of performance I can’t fault it. It’s quiet and washes and spins well, so now only time will tell if my gamble pays off in the long run.Is the cooling fan cutting in, assuming it has one, as if not that’d be why the overheat protection is shutting it down and then restarting after it has cooled a bit.
I doubt it’s just timed – there’ll be a temperature sensor in there somewhere. If it’s now working it may be that the connectors weren’t making good contact and the act of unplugging and reconnecting them has cleaned them up.
That board looks like no more than a variable resistor, and the fact that the fridge temperature does change when you change the setting suggests it’s doing something.
Does the fridge get its cold air via a fan blown from the freezer as if so there’s likely a temperature controlled air flap and that might be sticking?Appears that this model has the evaporator behind the inner casing but as you are finding you’ll still get frost build-up, and yes in a freezer some will appear pretty much immediately. How much frost are you getting as I wouldn’t have thought it should need defrosting more often than every three or four months?
Also, the more often you open the door the faster it will generate frost as you are letting a new lot of moist air in each time.The 016 2180 02 appears to be the Hotpoint part number whereas the spec of belt you need is a 490 J5 (or 1245 J5). This is 49″ (1245mm) long with a 5 ribbed ‘J’ profile.
Yes, it is perfectly normal for it to be silent at times as the thermostat will be switching the compressor on periodically to cool it and off again when it is at the right temperature. When the compressor is off it will be silent.
Sounds like the only issue was a blown bulb which you have now fixed.Dave, is this a cold rear wall type fridge rather than a blown air type? If so I assume it has a valve so it can regulate the fridge separately from the freezer?
It’s a frost-free fridge-freezer so how can they say it’s normal to get frost build-up in the fridge, which I assume works by having cold air blown into it from the freezer?
As Dave has said above, why would they change parts if it’s working normally (which I don’t think it is)? Sounds to me like they were just stalling for time until the warranty expires.If the fault on your dishwasher was caused by a lightening strike then I’d be very wary about trying to repair it at all and would look to my house insurance to deal with it.
Ours runs at least one 60 degree wash each week (sheets or towels) using Bio powder and that seems to keep it clean enough.
As it’s less than 6 months old and they have had a failed repair attempt you are quite within your rights to reject it and ask for your money back f you so wish.
https://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/regulation/consumer-rights-act-aKJYx8n5KiSl
