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“What could the issue be, and is it possible for me to repair it? Is there anything I can do? It’s going to cost more than the machine to have someone come to look at it. Thanks.”
Fairly common. The drum spider is as, Iadom suggests, fractured or the drum is severally warped because the drums are fairly thin. The only way to fix the thing is to buy a new drum since even if the spider drum support arm or arms are fractured that part only comes with as a drum complete. You might have a bit of trouble tracking one down and expect to pay around 110 quid or so.
If you did a lot of low temp washing the spider will rot faster than it otherwise would. Would not make much difference whether you have soft water or hard water, the lower the temp used the bigger the chance of slit / and so bacteria building up within and on the alumimum spider lattice which in itself usually makes the machine smell as the spider gets a jelly type mould. The spider arms are fairly thin anyway! This fault is very common not only on cheap machines. All the machines that I have ever worked on have an ally alloy spider, it is just that some are better than others and last longer until their demise if the drum bearings do not fetch the machine out prior.You can get a really strange one with these things. The spider actually visually has not cracked an arm but where the shaft is embeded in the ally spider it flexes at that point on most loads causing rubbing of the rubber door seal, a somewhat dreadful noise and a concentic running drum at top whack spin speed.
Just avoid the cheap capacitors especially the Chinese made ones Other Chinese made parts can be ok but their capacitors have a duff rating in my experience. The Ducati brand are just fine so I`d fit that brand..
rounded up to nearest whole number a new tank from Hotpoint is 203 quid. Now that has gotta hurt. You do not give the full model number as read off the machines label so this one has been picked out at random based on the info you gave. There are 10 versions though without spilitting hairs probably have the tank units….but best to check properly.
Bosch Serie 2 WAJ28008GB Freestanding Washing Machine- Has a tank you can disassemble via the parts breakdown waj28008gb/01.
https://www.johnlewis.com/bosch-seri…white/p4917463
https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/support…glebox=tb0319/WAN28281GB as wan28281gb /32 has a disassembling tank
Wan24109gb as a WAN24109GB/33 does have a disassembling tank. If you type wan24109gb/01 you get this product is no longer available anymore, so presume that version not destined for import presumably reason unknownhttps://www.bosch-home.co.uk/product-list/WAN24109GB.
Yes no parts listed and also this product is not available…a trite odd even by Bosch`s standardsThe dryer valve water restrictor has blown out allowing far too much water into the machine during the drying cycle is one possiblity.
Sounds like to me that the motor module is playing up OR a loose wire from the tacho rear of motor generator to tell what speed the drum shoud turn hence the noise from the belt as it for a split second tries to go into spin mode from a wash speed. More likely to be the former i.e. the pcb. very little info on your model, kinda typical. Think your Bush is probably an, oops forgot to import the spares, is Chinese/ PRC made – nothing wrong with that as such but not famed for any tech back-up or spares via importers.
Can also be a blockage in the right angled breather pipe from the dispenser to the tank. The blockage is usually at the tank end.What happens is the i/let valve is triggered the machine begins to fill, the air within the machine cannot escape being non displaced by the water, the pressure senser switch gets triggered way before it should by, if you like, a vaccum affect and switches the water off very low level than it should be. The blockage is a cardboard thin film across the breather across its tank nozzle. On quick wash type prgrammes the water level is low. Could be a load of kriptonite in your case but worth a look.
I have had this one before. It was the actual door lock fooling around but as a caveat it might not be on your machine. You buy the part at your own risk.Part number is genuine samsung part number is DC3400026A or the so called pattern part ( which is really the genuine repackaged as far as one can tell! ) is Qualtex part number QUAINT116OQ.
“Me neither Dave, it’s definitely water getting to bearings.” What actually happens provided everything is fitted correctly AND IS LUBRICATED ( use marine propellor white grease which I found is better than silicon ) is that the bearing aluminium tube is faulty ( so probably a hair line crack running front to back ) but does not look like it but it is. Same situation can happen with the previous completely different beast WM series too and the previous to that the 95 series***. Frankly my advice has always been to call it a day and just invest in a new machine ( and preferably a cheap one since the expensive ones are no better ) or if the spider looks ok, and so not mashed up by shrapnel mode bearing remains, just replace just the bearings and bearing seal only and give that a go without forking out on a new spider and so without any replacement screw drilling hassles. The 30mm set up I always thought was much better than the 35mm effort which in the early days of the WMA series caused serious el mucho grief for Hotpoint and buyers alike. ***Just a general note in passing: if for the WM or older 95 series, which share the same bearings and spiders, if you buy the pattern part that very often comes without the cir clip ring which is often over looked. If you forget to remove the one off the duffy original spider onto your new spider the phosphor bronze bearing hub fouls, but even worse, you do not know it has fouled, and it becomes loose on the shaft = nuked bearings within a month as the water will get into the bearing housing. All fun and games………..if you think the “new” sealed tank assemblies are any better then think again!
Well I suppose you could read a service manual as there is not a lot of stuff available, least officially, so here is a suggestion. If you were to Google Partmaster, then click Curry`s Logik washing machines and type in L612WM13 you will find the beginning of the parts page. If you hit the scroll diagram box you can find the service manual pdf file. This will tell how to service this typical C21st basic washing machine in a rather shaky Chinese translation into English with colour pictures. It is all free ( crickey that is a rarity! ) and there might be a few others pdf files knocking about with some other Chinese brands too if you look out for them. So the question really is if there is a freebee pdf on a 200 quid machine from PRC why isn`t there a free pdf service manual on say a Hotpoint, Indesit, Bosch, Miele etc….draw your own conclusions, I`ve drawn mine!
Understood. All the very best with the Miele and thanks for your reply both initial and concluding input.
“Our Beko DW686 recently gave up the ghost after ten years. We want to replace it with something that will last… It’s so disheartening that manufacturers make it so difficult to choose to buy something durable that’s not an eco-disaster.”
Well, I agree with that but you do not say if your Beko lasted 10 trouble free years or not and you did not say what was the fault that is making you buy a new machine. It could be that the fault was simple, cheap and quick to repair, in other words you can get one hell of a lot of parts for the 1100 quid your Miele is going to cost so: I find it disheartening that the public throw away stuff at the slightest whim that = a bigger eco-disaster or exchanging one eco disaster for another eco disaster using free hot water or not!
The Bosch / Siemens / Neff dishwashers I would agree are no-where reliable enough for the money, the Miele on the other hand are very expensive to repair SHOULD it go wrong but then my crystal ball is just as useless as your crystal ball. Currently Miele charges for out of warranty repairs are £150 for the first hour, £100 for the hour after that and then a charge that is not stated at 6mins intervals after that…so I would be inclined to pray that a Miele never goes wrong then unless under a warranty of some kind! You have of course done your research well so you know all this anyway as you have also checked out the horrendous price of replacement spare parts too, so at least you have a rough idea, because your machine is so very recent there does not seem to be any parts listed as yet.
So what would I have done: 1) find out how much to repair it on a free callout first. 2) then either not bother repairing it or better still not bother replacing it and do without. 3) I would, if replacing it, shunned Miele, Bosch & Co, Hotpoint & Indesit ( dreadful dishwashers ), AEG and all Electrolux dishwasher stuff, ignored the foolhardy temptation of all Vestel dishwashers so that leaves a basic Beko, a basic Zenith ( which is a Beko ) or a more advanced Beko models of which I would have warmed to the former 2 rather than the latter or even a Currys essentials or a entry level Kenwood** which in my experience both were much less grief than a Bosch at near half the price and very easy to work on being Chinese designed, whereas Bosch & co dishwashers are designed by an alleged twisted sadist with a warped sense of humour. ** generally ok dishwashers but suffer from the sump fractionally warping hence a leak, where the O ring seal on the outlet pump due mainly not the warpage so much as the O ring seal being too thin to take up the warpage- use an Askoll pump`s O ring seal instead as it is thicker by 20{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}.
