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Viewing 15 posts - 181 through 195 (of 2,140 total)
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  • in reply to: Old Candy Turbomatic 801 washer dryer Drain pump #430792
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Old Candy Turbomatic 801 washer dryer Drain pump

    Is it this one? QUAPMP23? If so then put “Pump Candy 120” in as a search on Ebay.

    Same as the turbo 21WD; you either have this exact type or the large boxy filter housing. The pump motor IIRC was the same so can be swapped over.

    Hope that helps!!

    Steve.

    in reply to: Neff U1422n0gb/03 main oven switch pushed in #430762
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Neff U1422n0gb/03 main oven switch pushed in

    Can’t see what you mean – is the selector switch mounting bracket bonded to the glass control panel? The control knobs of this design seem to collapse inside themselves and some are obsolete. (quick Google Images search and there’s loads of new old stock out there!) If the bracket is bonded (don’t remember seeing one like that though..) then use the 300 degree silicone used for mounting the oven glass door panels; that should do it and it’s heatproof.

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Neue dishwasher #430459
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Neue dishwasher

    As long as there’s continuity through the door wires to the heater; module most likely – there’s little else…..

    Steve.

    in reply to: Belling idw704 module #430732
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Belling idw704 module

    1899420805 – Beko in disguise. 😉

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Bosch WAE24469GB/17 will not start #430639
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Bosch WAE24469GB/17 will not start

    Press and hold the start button for 5 seconds – childproof lock on?

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: tricity bendix wdr1041w no dryer heat #430462
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: tricity bendix wdr1041w no dryer heat

    You can pull – test the wiring at arms length and you could probably just about get to it from underneath, but it would be much easier to split the cabinet. Also if fitting a new thermistor, they have to ‘clip in’ to the grommet style hole in the lower hose; not easy from underneath – tried it!

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Neue dishwasher #430455
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Neue dishwasher

    Soppy little pressure switch fitted to these and most very late Lux dishwashers…..

    Completely empty all water from the sump; remove door skin; unclip plinth front cover, remove plinth frame. Look at the sump unit and just to the left of centre and up under the tub you will see two very thin wires go up to a little item pushed into the side of the sump; it is white plastic, about 5cm long and has a dome in the middle. It is secured to the sump with a small plastic barb that has to be prised downwards and the pressure switch can be slid out and unplugged from loom.

    Clean out the hole into the sump, the rubber gasket and try to clear the switch by tapping the open end onto your palm. Sometimes food bits come out and the switch can be saved, sometimes not. Fortunately, they are quite cheap and quite fallible so that’s good news….. 😉 I am now keeping this item as van stock as I’ve had several fail and they seem to be regular fit to Lux based stuff.

    Hope that helps,

    Steve.

    in reply to: tricity bendix wdr1041w no dryer heat #430460
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: tricity bendix wdr1041w no dryer heat

    Thermistor in the bottom hose – wires broken off? These wires are always too tight through the zip ties – cut ties off to gain slack.
    The “stat” at the front of the heater plenum (closest to control panel) is a thermal limiter so that should be N/C, Safety stat with reset (red) button between tags should be N/C……

    Hope that helps!

    Steve.

    in reply to: Rangemaster Cooker Clock unable to set #430316
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Rangemaster Cooker Clock unable to set

    It is possible for the clock to get frazzled by a power outage. As this cooker is gas, best to contact Rangemaster themselves or an engineer with a Gas Safe registration. Do not attempt to gain access to the clock as it is fitted under the hob and requires removal of the control panel and the hob.
    Engineer help essential (and legal!) in this case; sorry!

    HTH.

    in reply to: AEG competence D5701-5-M Fan oven constantly heats #430442
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: AEG competence D5701-5-M Fan oven constantly heats

    Main power board has a stuck relay – common problem with fully electronic controls. Almost certainly a board required. Get an engineer check though as one board is showing as obsolete……. and you don’t need expensive mistakes…..

    HTH.

    in reply to: Servis Washer Overheating #430425
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Servis Washer Overheating

    Email EMW – they will know the regular and some of the obscure faults on Servis PCB’s. Or look at their website as it gives the most common faults listed under each module.

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Hotpoint Aquarius FDL570 Dishwasher – PCB #430422
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint Aquarius FDL570 Dishwasher – PCB

    The serial number is proof enough of the age. Didn’t register or didn’t get a reply letter? The difference is huge. 😉
    You can get the part but it will not be configured – like having a new computer without an operating system installed. It’s the way that the manufacturers ring-fence their service work and remove choice from the customer.
    The only way you can do it is Hotpoint Service. Sorry!

    HTH.

    in reply to: Hotpoint Aquarius FDL570 Dishwasher – PCB #430420
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint Aquarius FDL570 Dishwasher – PCB

    Looks like the remnants of a slug that has got into the module box. Firstly make sure the machine is unplugged. Pick off what you can and clean off with a dry toothbrush. Try it again; but most probably the board is fried.

    These modules are only available through Hotpoint service – they have to be software programmed. Your machine will qualify for the free five year PARTS warranty, (yes, parts only) and about £125+ to get Hotpoint to do it; so not a cheap fix, but unfortunately the only way it can be done.

    HTH.

    in reply to: True or false? #429121
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: True or false?

    lee8 wrote:The NICEIC inspector is talking out of his arse.

    Simple really.

    The rules/regs concerning legal responsibility for the integrity of the cooker or hob wiring back to the consumer unit/ installation differs for a repairer/electrician/installer.

    Again it goes back to qualifications.

    The above answer proves that, after several weeks of this thread being live and there still is no one actual all – encompassing answer to the question. Everything is dependent on circumstances. And Lee8 takes that long to tell us, wait for it… that there are, in fact, several answers. 😯 Believe it or not, I knew that…. hence I asked the question as I was trying to save myself a little time reading the regs up. (which I can do as the book is directly above me on the shelf)… but I thought it was a subject that should be up for debate. To educate…. 😉

    Well done Lee8; you still can’t give a definitive answer to the original post….. even with all your qualifications. Asking questions is not a weakness; it serves to educate the interested. You advocate education and qualifications yet continually derogate anyone who asks a question. You remind me of my tutor at college; he supposedly had all the answers, but couldn’t frame them to answer any question asked as the “you should know this… tut!” was always the response. That’s really helpful…. if only to polish one’s own ego. Bravo “I’m better than you!” was the implication. Some of the time it was clear he didn’t know certain facts and figures because as an educator he would have answered, seen the reaction of the pupil and then tutted. A meeting with him years later when roles were reversed proved that it was clearly a case of the Emperor’s new clothes.
    I have several times in previous topics attempted to educate you that while continuing to disparage people on here, you have absolutely no idea how qualified they are. So conventional wisdom and basic good manners would mean you would give help if you can and don’t assume that because people ask questions they are stupid. I assume you are stupid as you still patronise people while answering nothing; probably because you clearly don’t know the answers – if you did you would show your countless qualifications and experience by demonstrating your vast knowledge. You never do of course; almost certainly because you can’t.

    Do me a favour Lee and don’t respond to anything I post again as you have nothing of worth to offer in the way of knowledge or even conversation. Like my tutor, you can be smugly satisfied in your own little bubble, but as HNC qualified as I am, I didn’t actually need YOUR help….. if you have ever actually given any.
    So take your sarcasm and stick it up your IP66 rated armoured cable gland – that is the standard required just to make sure it is water and “Lee8 bullshit” proof.

    Go and be insignificant somewhere else….. 😉

    Steve.

    ….awaits expected inane reply…… 😐

    in reply to: Delonghi DFS090DO #430265
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Delonghi DFS090DO

    There is a countersunk screw either side of the top rims (at the top front corner of each side panel)and a further 2 screws at the back corners of the hob. Remove side trims. Remove all burners; further screws under the burners – don’t miss them! Hob hinges up and the screws for the control panel are on top.
    Shouldn’t need to remove the control panel though; the selector switch screws are accessible behind the knob (might need to push the insulation back a few mm): but to swap the switch the hob has to be lifted.

    Word of warning – the hob has no prop and the edges are razor sharp!!

    HTH,

    Steve.

Viewing 15 posts - 181 through 195 (of 2,140 total)