aqualectric

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Viewing 15 posts - 211 through 225 (of 2,140 total)
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  • in reply to: Kenwood dishwasher #428874
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Kenwood dishwasher

    Look at the air break assembly (usually behind left side panel). The water filling will sound hissy but will appear to be OK. The venturi in the air-break gets scaled up and drastically reduces filling speed. This in turn causes the machine to “retry” filling and eventually E1 fault – not filling to capacity in the allotted time. I’ve tried descaling these units without much success – new part (surprisingly expensive for a plastic box!) is the only surefire answer.

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: AW23 erratic motor. #428464
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: AW23 erratic motor.

    Right….. new PCB arrived – that didn’t work – same as before! All three motors tried with new brushes and no carbon inside (blown out with compressed air) and meggered – all give the fast / slow speed fault. WTF???

    Anyone had this fault? Also a couple of times the other modules (I have two; one is the original unit and one was a s/hand one of unknown history) sporadically threw an F22 fault; motor triac shorted.

    Don’t know where to go with this…. 😕

    Any help please!!

    Steve.

    in reply to: Bush oven ae6bfs #428270
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Bush oven ae6bfs

    Thermostat or TOC. Pull the wires off the stat and hook them together – switch oven on and see if it heats. Stat is only an on off switch so this is the quickest way to check the rest of the oven works OK. Could be TOC but I would think that would inhibit the whole oven from functioning.
    My money’s on the stat as the temperature light isn’t on – therefore power is probably getting to the stat from the selector switch and not being switched through the stat.

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Hotpoint WT741 low water level on wash. #427839
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint WT741 low water level on wash.

    Some extra info on this…….

    Noticed that the machine doesn’t fill in the main wash compartment – just fills on the ‘prewash’ side then goes straight on washing (and heating!). new module from EMW fitted today – no difference. Swapped pressure switch and valve for new – still the same. Going to try the loom continuity before going mad.

    Anyone have any suggestions?

    Steve.

    in reply to: Baumatic E1 Fault #427834
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Baumatic E1 Fault

    Check the filling speed through the air chamber as these can scale up and take just a few seconds too long to fill and time out (E1). This particular machine has the water meter / reed switch as part of the air break; could be at fault too. I’d look there first.

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: AEG grill element ceramic socket. #427020
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: AEG grill element ceramic socket.

    Got one!!!

    Thanks to Electrical Sales of Nelson, Lancashire who had one left in stock and posted it promptly. Must be the last socket of its type left in the UK……. :rolls:
    Thanks David!


    Steve.

    in reply to: Alternative Bosch washing machine pump #427052
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Alternative Bosch washing machine pump

    Look at the Qualtex PMP229 or Connect PMP777 bayonet pumps. They often fit the 4 lug applications – and the ‘red coil cover’ Copreci type Bosch pumps is one they replace.

    Hope that helps!

    Steve.

    in reply to: Recent Bosch dishwashers #425820
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Recent Bosch dishwashers

    Thanks Martin!! 😀

    Steve.

    in reply to: Recent Bosch dishwashers #425819
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Recent Bosch dishwashers

    I’ll have one too please, Martin!! Although I am getting on OK with these now and they are quicker to dismantle than the older versions, so not all bad. Also not as reliable – equally not all bad!!

    Thanks,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Rangemaster dual grill simmerstat #425626
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Rangemaster dual grill simmerstat

    Fit an EGO replacement – I’ve had little success over the years trying to convert EGO to Diamond H. Internal switching is not the same. I’m sure some will say it’s possible; but I’ve had a few blown trips in the past to prove it’s not worth trying. Readily available as ELE4114 on Connect for a fiver…..

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: indesit IWE91281 eco. #425614
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: indesit IWE91281 eco.

    Did you tip the machine up to do the heater job? If so, refer to Jim’s (Iadom) post at the top of the Tech Enquiries forum entitled “Hotpoint/Indesit pressure switch reset.”

    Could be that…….. 😉

    Steve.

    in reply to: pro action #425457
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: pro action

    Did you put in “Vestel pulley” as a Search on Connect? One pulley shown – is that the one?

    in reply to: pro action #425455
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: pro action

    Looks like a Vestel machine; pulley available from Connect and others.

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Bosch SMV69T10GB #425548
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Bosch SMV69T10GB

    Had one with this fault just last month. Traced it to a faulty main control module; (had a blown triac) – no display or anything; just showing ‘check water’ light and one other light. Pump ran when the safety float was lifted. That was all.
    Make sure the new module is configured – no point in going any further if it’s not as no software is available outside BSH. Also familiarise yourself with the ‘language set up’ procedure before you go to fit it……. modules default to German on the screen unless you manually set it to English.

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Stoves Oven Timer Clock Cutting Out #425486
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Stoves Oven Timer Clock Cutting Out

    Sounds like the clock is failing. You can easily diagnose this by temporarily looping out the white relay on the back of the clock so that the clock has no influence at all.
    To do this neatly and safely, replace the single tag with a piggyback tag on the single wire going to one terminal of the relay then refit it. Pull off the other wire (usually double) and connect the other wire from the other terminal onto the piggy tag. Then get the customer to run it as normal. Because the relay switches the oven on and off, the ‘looped out’ clock can come on, go off, flash or die to its heart’s content and the oven will still work. If it now works OK, new clock is required. But because you have fitted the piggyback tag in this way, the wires can be returned to their original positions on the new clock with no fuss.

    HTH,

    Steve.

Viewing 15 posts - 211 through 225 (of 2,140 total)