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Re: Lincat commercial range cookers.
Thanks for the input guys!!
I’ll relay the good news tomorrow – at least future repairs are not a problem; keeps me in the loop!Cheers,
Steve.
Re: Horse with no name?
Door catch pecker points towards the door glass; the lamp above the on / off switch also stays lit at the end of the cycle to indicated the door is locked, even when the button is switched off?
WM1000 – that sounds like a Siltal integrated washer. The above items will help you identify this.
Oh, and Masterpart do all the bits. 😉Steve.
Re: Bosch S5443X1GB/17 buzzer.
Thanks, Geoff – maybe that should be posted in “Known Error Codes”?
Steve.
Re: What do Zanussi offer unlucky customers with blown PCBs?
The best person to answer that question accurately would be Alex. I was informed that Electrolux would help their customers with a heavily discounted repair if the machine was just out of warranty. The one I repaired needed the door interlock, the fascia PCB, the core PCB and the analogic pressure switch. It was a 16 month old integrated washer / drier so it was Hobson’s choice to repair it. Had it been freestanding, it would have been binned. 🙁
IMO, this makes Zanussi / Electrolux machines on par with Indesit. What’s the difference now? Sealed tubs, chocolate teapot electronics……a few years back you could recommend a Zanussi with relative confidence.
Not any more…..but do they care?Steve.
Re: ISE 5 no spin.
I had already talked at length with the customer, crossing the T’s and even dotting the lower case J’s before I decided I had to call out. Sometimes you have to see for yourself if there is a problem. I would just like to know why the machine will spin empty but will not spin with a good load in the drum. I have called out to many OOB jobs so I know what I am looking at. When I tested the machine the OOB seems to be far too sensitive. And as it’s using an induction motor and an inverter board, the faults will be different from the brush motor. All I need are some pointers or PCB’s to substitute.
I haven’t actually mentioned about charging anyone for anything, I just want to do my best to sort it out as morally, my name is on that machine.Steve.
Re: Leaking incoming water hoses on Candy C1260
Do you need to have a 90 degree elbow at both ends of the hose? 90 degree at one end and 1.5metres (4 feet) long is the standard hose in red (hot) or blue (cold). They can be found in any DIY store or builders’ / plumbers’ merchants.
If you can’t find what you need, e’mail Shop@ with your requirements. The link is to the left of the screen in the navigation bar. Dave will surely be able to help. 😉HTH,
Steve.
Re: ISE 5 no spin.
Yes, I agree with you Jim that the 10 minutes is at best a guide, but to stop an OOB fault, the customer can’t really be expected to always have a full load in the drum every time. This machine is in a house with a retired couple and is not heavily used. They are more often than not going to generate a small to medium load twice a week. They had a Hoover Softwave before with no OOB so this problem is something new to them.
Steve.
Re: ISE 5 no spin.
Called today and tried to spin a 3/4 load of wet hand towels. Set to spin, 10 minutes on the display. After about 3 minutes, the drum is still revolving seemingly trying to balance the load; display still shows 10 minutes. Reset the program and tried again with an empty drum. Span fine as expected – counted down 10 minutes….9……..seemed perfectly OK. But as machines are for putting washing in, an empty drum doesn’t prove much. So I wet the towels on a rinse fill, then cancelled the cycle, waited for the door to unlock, turned the selector back to Off and then set to spin. 10 minutes on the display. Machine tries for about 5 minutes this time; then finally the display changes to 9 minutes and it starts to spin. :rolls: Does an OOB stop the display counting down?
That’s awfully sensitive – the drum was hardly moving on its suspension at all and the towels were distributed evenly around the drum. IMO, it should have spun, no problem.
Any help on this would be appreciated.Steve.
Re: Quality Tamperproof Torx/Security Torx bit sets
Ahh, you mean the dinky gold ones with the little handle together in a green socket holder!! Yes, they last quite well – had a couple of sets of those. The ones I was refering to were 3/8″ drive in a grey metal case. The Torx 40 used on Ariston / Indesit metal drum spiders killed them in 2 goes. The ends twisted up like marshmallow cables. :rolls:
When I took them back the chap at Machine Mart tried to tell me I had “forced” them. Uhh? I put them on the socket handle and turned them; the problem lies in the fact that the bolt didn’t turn at the same time. But “Pondlife Pete” behind the counter was not having any of it. His manager saw that a simple refund was probably the best way of saving him from being impaled on said Torx fitting. Refund – Thank you!!
Mind you, I still haven’t found a good set myself – but asking motor mechanics and the like for advice all say the same – Snap On.Steve.
P.S. My Machine Mart bearing puller failed on the first job – removing a 6205ZZ Zanussi bearing from a small drum shaft. So I had to use the Chinese made one I had had since my car resto days. (£4 from a cheap tool shop). Removed the bearing with ease. I doubt it was made by Haier though…….. 😉
Re: Refrigeration Legislation
There would have to be a charge levied to cover the admin. If anything, as in the perennial “call out charge” arguement, the charge adds value to what is being offered. None of the recipients of the certificates will work for nowt, so the WTA cannot be expected to either. Are DEFRA offering to cover our costs if the WTA get the nod?
Just a question – does the WTA have training facilities in place for applicants to upgrade if required? I don’t do refrigeration normally, but I took the C&G refrigerant handling certificate back along to be covered just in case I needed it in the future. Do we have a list of centres?Steve.
