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Viewing 15 posts - 1,441 through 1,455 (of 2,140 total)
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  • in reply to: Hoover AC170 dial required #247734
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Hoover AC170 dial required

    Hoover part number – HVR682448. Around £8.50 + VAT. Special order item.

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: ARISTON AWD12 FILLING. #247713
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: ARISTON AWD12 FILLING.

    Sounds like a faulty triac on the PCB – she may not buy a new board but EMW can repair it for a fraction of the cost with 12 months warranty. I usually get to do the job by repairing rather than replacement – environmentally friendly and all that ……:wink:

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Diplomat APM8502 overfilling ! Help needed ! #247602
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Diplomat APM8502 overfilling ! Help needed !

    This machine has a pressure switch to control the water level. The small hose that links it to the pressure pipe on the sump hose may have:-

    1) Pulled off the pressure switch. Power off! :plug: Remove the lid. At the back corner of the machine is a round device with wires connected and a black rubber hose pushed on underneath it. Check it is fitted on tightly.

    2)The pressure hose is blocked. Power off! :plug: Tip the machine back and support against a wall so it cannot slip and fall on you. 😉 The sump hose is underneath and runs from the filter housing to the drum. Where the hose joins the drum there is a second branch leading to a white nozzle that has the other end of the small black rubber hose from the pressure switch connected to it. This pipe could be blocked with sludge. Remove the white nozzle and with a small wet bottle brush, clean out the hose, refit the white nozzle and stand machine down. Check for correct function and leaks.
    This type of blockage is usually caused by not regularly cleaning the filter. 😉

    Remember – Power off and unplug before any inspection.

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Whirlpool AWZ7814AL drier no heat. #247491
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Whirlpool AWZ7814AL drier no heat.

    Thanks again Chris! 😀

    Steve.

    in reply to: Whirlpool AWZ7814AL drier no heat. #247489
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Whirlpool AWZ7814AL drier no heat.

    Are you paying £19 + VAT; Chris? Steep!!
    Could it just be Connect’s prices?…….. 😯 oh no – what have I said?? 😀

    Cheers for the info,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Bosch maxx WFL2450 #247472
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Bosch maxx WFL2450

    Have you checked the filter?

    Steve.

    in reply to: Disc #247256
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Disc

    Who can be contacted at Lux to be absolutely sure? I think official confirmation is required before we complain.
    If it is sadly true, then Lux have chosen the same path as Indesit; that leaves us indies high and dry. 😥 If no info is available, then surely that directly affects those who do contract work on new stuff – that in turn will affect the insurance companies. This adds fuel to Ken’s masterpiece earlier this week and if it is found to be true, I think we will have to act very soon – especially on the restrictive practice issue.
    It’s worrying…… 👿

    Steve.

    in reply to: Belling IDW604 motor. #247108
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Belling IDW604 motor.

    Errrm…. don’t know…..I must admit I didn’t look too carefully as the customer was saying she was going to buy new. Then she decides to do it. :rolls:
    BTW, what cap runs the motor? 4uf? I’ll take a new one and go for a second look if necessary.

    Cheers, Chris!

    Steve.

    in reply to: Belling XOU188BR Oven #246903
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Belling XOU188BR Oven

    It’s probably not the springs. The hinge sockets split and the result is the door will stop about 2″ from shut position. HNG4264 hinge socket kit from Connect should do the job.
    If you haven’t done this repair before, it is important to follow the instruction sheet to the letter otherwise the door will still not shut. The job is a little fiddly but not difficult. 😉
    If after you have fitted the sockets, the door should shut well. If it does, but not positively, there is a trick you can do to remedy it. Open the door and remove the side chrome trims and the inner glass panel. As the door closes, watch the hinge carriages (through the front door glass) run up their guide slots. If the carriages reach the top of the guides before the door has firmly closed, then the frame has stretched. To sort it out, remove the door and the front glass, leaving just the frame. Unhook the springs and let the carriages drop down in the frame. Using a rat – tail file of a corresponding size, file the guide slots up about 1/2″ – 3/4″ on both sides of the door. This will allow the carriages to go higher up the door and pull the hinges in tighter. Refit the springs and then fit the frame to the oven body and test it. If it is all working, lubricate the guides, reassemble and refit the door.

    Hope that “Get out of jail free” card helps, 😀

    Steve.

    in reply to: Belling IDW604 motor. #247106
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Belling IDW604 motor.

    Connections and Spareslink don’t show this model at all – so any help greatly appreciated!!

    Thanks,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Hotpoint 30mm Seal (Again!) #246998
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint 30mm Seal (Again!)

    Expect more of the 30mm types – I have had a disproportionate amount of 30mm bearing machines to do lately. They seem to be fitted to the later production and are not as reliable as the 35mm Rubena ones.
    Changing the 30mm bearings is easy and the shafts are generally fully serviceable for reuse.
    The 35mm tub half is a straight swap for the 30mm; the bearing kits are not interchangeable. You either change the 30mm bearing or upgrade to the 35mm tub half et al. (only viable way to do that is to use a spare s/hand tub half). The 30mm shaft is available as a special order item and costs a whopping £51.00 + VAT. 😯

    Hope that helps,

    Steve.

    in reply to: I’m done #246968
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Im done

    I agree with Chris – it’s always entertaining to read ‘helo_75’ responses. He is the whitegoods answer to Basil Fawlty. “I’ve warned you time and time again……now I’m going to give you a damn good thrashing!!!!!” (wielding a large branch and beating the living cr@p out of his car.)
    Classic!! Don’t stop helo – otherwise it’ll all be so boring…… 😆

    Steve.

    in reply to: Servis m9503w lights #246956
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Servis m9503w lights

    Drain the machine manually first, check filter and retry. If there is still nothing, try an interlock: then it will be PCB. ‘Machine dead’ is a common fault on Servis washers – EMW do a selection of these PCB’s and may be able to test yours for function. (01159) 652118.
    Almost certainly PCB failure. 😉

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Zanussi WJS1665W Bearing Replacement. #246867
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Zanussi WJS1665W Bearing Replacement.

    E’mail Dave at spares@ukwhitegoods.co.uk and he will find the correct bearings and seals for you. The best thing to do is to dismantle the machine first, check over all the parts and then order what’s required. That will also prove the machine is worth fixing before you spend anything. Also check the motor for worn bearings as these can shriek like a banshee when worn. A replacement motor is not cheap when added to bearings and seals. 😉

    Power off and unplug before any investigation. :plug:

    Hope that helps,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement? #246610
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?

    The seal on the split Zanussi tubs sit in a channel around the tub. The front tub half has a raised edge that sits snugly in this channel compressing the seal. It is then bolted together. This makes a stable and tough joint, resistant to vibration. I cannot see a way you can cut the tub and reseal it satisfactorily. If you simply cut the tub in half, you will end up with 2 flat cut edges with no seal channel. The motor is directly beneath this joint and so integrity of the seal is paramount.
    Unfortunately, the bean counters have thought of this long before this machine was on the market – ie: at the design stage. Believe me, I used to champion Zanussi products and on the whole, they are not too bad compared with the competition. The drum assembly is subjected to huge stresses during the spin cycle. 10lbs of clothes spinning slightly off balance at 1400 rpm is what the original design was built to cope with. This machine has been designed as is, and you, me, and even the most sympathetic manufacturers engineer could not and should not try to repair this tub – the risk of personal injury from water leaking on live electrical parts cannot be stressed enough. A complete replacement tub is the only answer. That said; if you were to put a new tub in this machine, you still have the computer unit, the pump, the motor, the valves and heater that are still the originals. All you can do is cross your fingers that they don’t fail too quickly, or the machine could become a proverbial money – pit.
    Please do not attempt to repair this machine.

    Steve.

Viewing 15 posts - 1,441 through 1,455 (of 2,140 total)