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Its build by a company called vestel
by the looks of it you will have to remove the motor to get the belt around the motor shaft
thats after you find a way to get the belt around the drum
Dave
jontymox wrote:Thanks for your input.
I hadn’t considered a heat pump fault; do you feel it may be shorting, and causing such a fault?
jontyshort answer dont know
from the bosch manuals i have seen some displays cover a few faults
you could unplug the heater and see if things change as it will run without that
not many manuals about but closest i can find is here. may give you a few ideas
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/958098/Bosch-She4am12u.html?page=38#manual
Dave
yes it will be that switch had a few of them fail its not uncommon
if you disconnect the switch and meter from the terminal to earth you will get a reading when it should be no reading at all
also Miele parts are usually cheaper if bought direct from miele
https://www.miele.co.uk/c/spare-parts-and-accessories-24.htm
click on “visit spare parts catalog”
Dave
jontymox wrote:p.s. I’ve wondered before if the above flow sensor/reed switches can be conclusively tested with a standard multi meter?
the flow sensor is only a reed switch with a revolving magnet in the water flow
if you connect a multi meter on buzz while you start the unit running your meter will pulse buzz buzz as the water flows in
since its only a switch it can never cause any fault on the timer. the only thing it will do is cause a no water fault either if its faulty or there is no water flow for some reason
Dave
well since the lock starts the programme by joining the switch contacts you should be able to meter this out. a high resistance will be the coil but 2 of the wires should be short circuit when the lock is in the locked position
look like it goes to connector J3
Dave
are you talking the heater relay or the pressure switch on the motor pump housing
had quite a few pressure switches fail and blow trips when rubber diaphragm fails
Dave
weird fault but does sound like a board.
very strange it works ok for a while
if it makes this noise for too long there is a real risk of the motor overheating
Dave
its not mould. the outlet water goes through there
don worry about it too much, the whole unit would have to come off to clean it
you could try a dishwasher cleaner on a hot wash when you get the new motor
Dave
baron wrote:
Candy?
I’m remember this kind of heating/water pressure control sistem on late 20 years ago…early dishwashers were Fagor built I think
Dave
realys are soldered into the board
to give you an idea what i am thinking although i cant prove it without testing
you have 3 wires going to the motor , one is neutral the other two are energised alternatively to make the motor go clockwise or anticlockwise. The problem you are getting looks like both of these wires are energised at the same time
if the capacitor was at fault i would expect the motor to have trouble starting whereas you motor starts easily when the fault goes
Dave
TailSpin wrote:Hmm, bad news is that the spider arm is not available separately and I have to buy a complete drum assembly, which costs 203GBP + VAT. That’s at least half the cost of a new machine…
welcome to modern manufacturing methods
sealed drums means scrapping machines that would be reconditioned 20 years ago
Dave
