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Re: new format bosch smv50e00gb/31 not cleaning in front???
nomadPaul wrote:There is a way to check but you need the appliance out to do it. Basically you get the appliance up and running and when you’re sure the water is going to the top arm , apply light pressure on the back , approx 26cms down. If the spray arm then starts rotating , you’ve confirmed it needs the rail.
Looks like im gonna have to dig out my crowbar and tyre lever then
Re: the best bearings…
Duly noted guys, but not really missing out on decent jobs at the moment, thanks to a newbie handy man in the area doing what we would deem our bread and butter jobs – dw filters, cooker elements etc. What with customers trying repairs themselves moreso too now, we have had to drop our labour rates quite a bit for the simplest problems. But more technical repairs such as bearings and pcbs have become more commonly requested, not because we have actively been offering it, but because all the competition in our area instantly decline it and hope they can flog them a new machine instead. On the flipside, never known a week when only half way through, 4 “decent” repair enquiries are declined, in favour of replacing it with the cheapest offering from currys or argos! I suppose its the run up to christmas which is why we are being asked for “cheapest this and cheapest that”.
One call was for our cheapest dryer, we have white knights at £159 picked up (£28 profit if she paid with a c/c – hardly a rip off right?), but that was too much so i offered her a repair on the creda tvr2 she had – stat job – quoted at £25 for stats and £40 labour and next day callout, and she thought it was too expensive, prefering to buy a £140 beko instead because we couldnt match that price! Its not like I can quote any cheaper otherwise its just not worth doing the job, or storing the machine as stock. I charge 2x callouts for bearings labour, but reduce to 1.5 if it goes easily. Whilst mr handy man is around undercutting me, I might as well stay busy and do 4x tub jobs over 2 days for people who genuinely cant afford new machines, and make circa £160-190 profit after vat on just the labour per day, and still pick up the odd new sale on the decent kit.
Mark, Far from trying to save a quid or so on bearings, i think you misinterpretted me – id rather spend a few quid on better seals and brands of bearing if it was more likely to guarantee a long life of repair, but that doesnt seem the case nowadays. The reason for going direct is £30 and upwards just for a bearing from zanussi or whirlpool is extortionate, hence asking about which ones to use on simply-bearings.
Re: new format bosch smv50e00gb/31 not cleaning in front???
theres defo water coming through the upper basket spinner, but its like theres not enough pressure to turn it, so it sounds like it might be the rail issue. is that a f.o.c bosch modification or something wed need to order?
Re: servicenet
don’t be disheartened, we did a couple of servicenet jobs before we realised they were go local, and eventually got paid…. 5 months later… although tbh all the margin was probably lost on the phone calls to chase payment.
Re: bosch interlock – 182154 / 603514 interchangeable?
Martin wrote:You will need an 00182154 or a 00171256 interlock for that beast.
martin, is that because internally its different to a 603514 tho? or is the only difference the clip fitting?
anyways, seems fault isnt that it wont start, it wont turn on at all, so presuming thats pcb as main power feed goes directly into back of pcb, yet theres continuity all way from plug pins to pcb terminal, so not suppressor or lead…
Re: Bosch WAE24363GB05 F21 Motor fault
try it with the door open.
did carbons on a 24364 today and tried quite a few times but it would not reset until i thought, hmmm try it with the door open 🙂
Re: beko tzda504fw feeling a bit odd
hi seamy that test seq seems to tie up, although the comp didnt run permanently, it cut out after 12 mins, give or take a min!
So in which case, surely that rules out the dodgy connection then? especially as i hadnt moved the machine before turning it on?
i note the odd relay connection that seems to be a bent over double strip of metal that has the other terminal transversing between it, although a bit of a wiggle to clean the contacts didnt seem to make any difference either. pcb and relay come to about £25 for the pair so may just throw a few bits and this and keep the fingers crossed… what do you think?
Re: Ive noticed a Burning smell !!
be aware on current hp and indeshit stock that interlock loom is now a whole loom, and instead of a tenner about £50, and that’s at trade prices…
Re: Built in appliances compromise your ability to repair
I have not found anything suitable other than using 1/4 inch socket with the screwdriver head blue tac in then use socket wrench. I found this is awkward. I saw someone using some sort of knob socket with the screwdriver head on in the car trade, I have not been able to find it on tools suppliers.
go to Halfords, get the ratchet spanner set that includes the hex adaptor for screwdriver bits. ratchet spanners ideal for motor removals on bosch etc and will sort your issue out easy. if I get time ill find you a linkRe: Servicenet
Got servicenetted today, and first place i looked was on here when i saw the green arrows on the website, HOWEVER in theory, if they are that desperate to find engineers, and we get the word out to as many indie engineers that no-one agrees to a repair without payment up front they will either have to back down and pay an up front call out or lose customers. If they have to turn away custom then they will eventually either stop offering appliance repairs, and stop bothering us, or agree to our requirements. Battle of wills, people, battle of wills. Alternatively UKWG could broaden their own “find an engineer” scheme, take their cut for referrals, and use the golocal business model (supply of parts through ukwg shop?) but obv with the engineers confidence they will get paid 🙂
Re: Samsung WD17004RJE2
Dave, not sure about that specific model but samsung w/d get a thumbs up from our customers so far.
General feedback is due to the largish drum, they can actually dry reasonably well (for a w/d). They can smell a bit “hot” or chemically, for the first few uses, but it soon goes away, almost like the rubber or plastics need to cure :/ Reliability is unsure, but so far, plenty sold since 2010, no call-outs so far, 2yr guarantees and 5yrs labourt cover also not half bad. And final anecdonte from one convert – had a bosch washer dryer in her part of her house, but also has a lodger, whose bedroom is on the other side of the wall. she could never use it in the evening as it was pretty noisy (not bearings, just whiney) so had us out to fix it so he could have it in his property, and ordered a s/s for herself. She abs loves it to bits, reckons it drys almost as well as a normal dryer, washes & dries so much better than the bosch, and doesnt wrinkle clothes up as much on full spin even tho the s/s is a 1400 and the bosch was a 1200…
btw do beko make a f/s washer dryer, i wasnt aware of one yet? (and the built-in beko w/d is a fagor, so you might as well get a fagor with a 5yr p&l guarantee if your suggesting one of those to your cust’s)
And on that note, dont forget most of the bosch washer dryers arent pukka bosch, they used to be identical to smegs, and were never that wonderful, so i presume came out the same italian factory their crappy WAA washers came out of, along with the cheapy whirlpools etc. Not only that, we struggled with the “atrocious” capacities they offered compared to hotpoints zanussis etc. Maybe im wrong, but their drums never seemed to last much longer than the screwed together zanussi tubs, and imo were defo not worth the £150 price tag hike.
hope that helps ?
Re: one for the experienced bosch dw engineers…
no worries martin, yeh it is pretty corroded, no idea about the bearing as i cant get the plastic spacer of the pinion yet!
overnight soaking it is then
Re: one for the experienced bosch dw engineers…
hmm. my main concern with swapping the windings over was whether the windings were all the same, or if they were of different lengths/qty of windings. and also a new snag, cant seem to dismantle the dodgy motor from the rest of the housing. This really isnt as simple as i thought it would be, like dismantling a bosch wm motor for example :bang:
Re: R11 Resistor value of Retro Servis electra e7316c f/f PC
jem, can you pm me a price if i was to pop it into the post to you for a refurb, as there are obvs other components worth replacing too?
I can get a new board from qtx for a reasonablely decent price, but they are special order, so :/
Re: R11 Resistor value of Retro Servis electra e7316c f/f PC
Jem, if you mean the power cap, then its only a boost to the compressor, its not in series with the wiring to the board, so in theory, i could start the comp if i re-wired the whole caboodle. besides, the board is getting power to it, but not sending it back out, so poss the sensors have failed but for both fridge and freezer thermistors to fail simultaneously is a bit unlikely. not only that, the browning of the card infers a break in the circuitry of the pcb, probs by the o/c resistor…
If you mean the big greyey blue box-cap on the pcb, then it seems to look okayish, but if you have a pro-method of testing it to be sure, then im all ears 🙂
