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leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: White Knight CL767c No heat
Just rang the bloke to arrange another look tomorrow. He says, “there’s been a bit of a development. We’ve found out that we had a service contract on it so I’m going to call them out. I hope you won’t mind if I call you again if they can’t sort it out.”
I’m a bit disappointed that I may now never know what the fault was. Still, got my money so all’s well that ends well. Not the first time I’ve been called out to look at i/gtee machines by customers who’ve got no paperwork or have lost it.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: White Knight CL767c No heat
Penguin45 wrote:How badly restricted is the airflow, Mike? If it really is stuffed into a corner it may be as simple as that.
Chris.
Didn’t think of that. But I’m pretty sure the thing ‘s been in there for a good while, presumably functioning normally. There’s no junk around it. I might have exaggerated how tight the space is. I managed to turn it sideways to get the back heater cover off.
See you haven’t broken your habit of staying up late!
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: White Knight CL767c No heat
Got very much same problem as Twoten with one of these. Totally blocked into a miserable cupboard/alcove behind a washer and a big f/freezer which would have to be taken out (and put where?) before I could get enough space to do any serious dismantling.
Problem is that m/c doesn’t seem to get high heat according to customer.
Now, interestingly, the element measures 15ohms through one half and 45ohms through other half. Does anyone know if that is right? I had expected it to be half and half but maybe I’m wrong. It looks/feels intact.
Incidentally, I’ve already replaced the cycling stat and the safety stat over the heater and when I crushed the old ones I thought I had it as the cycling stat contacts were quite well burnt. Have checked low heat switch and that measures OK. Maybe I should look at timer?
TIA.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: ariston li62 dishwasher
Had this on LSI61. P button had been pushed right in and pushing on the “tactile switch” failed to make it work. Brought the whole board home and searched for replacement switch on rswww.com.
Bought bag of 20 tactile switches for £2 post free,Part no.479-1457. Cut stalk to length. Soldered in a new one and it works fine.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Servive M9813W
Try blowing gently up the p/sw hose. If it’s 2 level you should hear 2 clicks; if you don’t you know there’s a problem with it. I recently opened up a near new Servis p/sw and found the little spring that tensions the contact had somehow become displaced.
MikeNovember 29, 2006 at 11:00 pm in reply to: Whirlpool AWM321/3 dribbling from door. No dirt,distortion #196691leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool AWM321/3 dribbling from door. No dirt,distorti
Thanks John, I’ll check that when I return there next week but I feel sure I would have picked it up in the hour I spent sitting in front of the machine scratching my head.
Mikeleavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Bosch HBN2820GB – Oven door hinge fault
Bosch have excellent facility called “quickfinder” on their site where you can find exploded diagrams showing parts/prices/partnumbers etc.
http://www.bshappliancecare.com
Mikeleavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Candy CN100T Auto W/M – Rotating Timer knob
These Hoover/Candy selector switches often do this. A new one is only about £13 + at MPt, or dismantle old one and clean the contacts/slider board with carbon tet or alcohol. Usually works, otherwise board to emw for repair.
Mike.November 7, 2006 at 2:47 pm in reply to: Servis M6115 programme indicators not move on at any stage #194543leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Servis M6115 programme indicators not move on at any sta
Ah, thanks Tim. Yes I went to look at both faults but just had vague hope that both would be miraculously cured by my soldering. Twas not to be.
Mike.November 2, 2006 at 12:36 am in reply to: Diplomat ADP8132 dw ntc clipped next to soap disp. part no? #194040leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Diplomat ADP8132 dw ntc clipped next to soap disp. part
Thanks for that, Chris. Yes I have been hiding, just had too much else to do. But now that summer seems to be over….
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Zan WJS1397W on/off sw. wiring
Many thanks Martin.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Beko Tacho Coil
Got a coil ex Arcelik, yellow wires, if you’re still looking. How do you get a part no. if the suppliers don’t list it?
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: zanussi fx1465w door lock?
Have one of these where lock has gone and blown 2 tracks on board near selector switch. There are three identical surface mounted devices in series with one of the blown tracks. Each device bears the number “154”.
Two of them measure about 150Kohms but the one nearest to the blown track will not give a reading. Are these resistors? Could I use an ordinary resistor in place of an smd if I can make it fit?
Ah, just noticed other smd’s on component side with same numbers and labelled R-this and R-that so think that’s my answer.
However, all “154”‘s on other parts of the board measure around 132Kohms not 150 😕
Anyone know if the figure is a value or some kind of code?
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Hoover AS110 – 001
It’s not by any chance one of those weird faults where a water valve solenoid coil goes short circuit and the pump gets 240v because they’re wired in series as a flood protection system, is it?
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Used Spares
I would.
I think one way to do it would be to post lists of parts available in the classified forum. The posts would stay there indefinitely and so anyone wanting a particular part would just use the site search facility to find a “supplier.”
Obviously the drawback is that listing parts takes time so it’s only worth doing for expensive stuff like motors. No good just listing as “Zanussi motor,” obviously. You’d have to quote the part number so that anyone could find exactly what they needed.
Mike. -
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