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is it the drying and iron drying leds ? If yes , then thats a ‘condensation container full’ fault……so i’d be looking at the pump , sump or drain hose between the pump and container .
These appliances do have a habit of gunging up in the pump sump area , especially if the customer doesn’t clean the condensor regularly. Pumps on the LHS as you look at the machine. To access , remove left hand side panel…..not forgetting the 2 screws behind the control panel that help secure the side panel.
It’ll prob be the foamed in sensor . There’s a mod for it where you bypass the sensor .
I think the official part number is 491415 which comes with instructions……or you may want to try the ‘search’ facility on here as there’s a mine of info if you put in ‘bosch fridge freezer mod’ !
Re: Can’t split Bosch Washer Tub
whiskeyjack6058 wrote:Exactly how it happens!! Remove the clips carefully via hacksaw and chissel and the extra screws take up the slack. I got all stressed up about doing one of these but it’s not as bad as it seems! Just take note of the suspention leg mounting to the tub tho.. If ever you need to change a damper it’s gonna be a big job!
The official way to replace the suspension legs is to drill out the fixing pegs with a 13.5mm drill as the new ones come with washers and bolts !!! 30min job at most !
The water level , when full , should just about cover the whole of the base of the appliance and reach about 1/2 way up the salt fill cap. A Low water level is the main reason for no heating faults on these machines . Check the pressure chamber and ribbed fill hose – pressure chamber to tub – on the left hand side for blockages . Low water levels won’t cause tripping though !
If the element is def ok ( 24 – 32 ohms ) then the other thing to check is the main control board for dry electrical joints or blown chips on the heater circuit.
It might be that the water diverter valve has blown taking out the board with it ! Look for intergrated circuit chips on the control board with ‘corners’ blown off them .
How did you get on with the actual door seal replacement Martin ? I struggled with the first few i did before i found my ‘method’ ? lol
The metal bar that has the 3 catches on it is supported on one end by the push button assy but by a small bearing spigot on the other end . This bearing can break and thus stop the bar from locking the flap properly.
F12 is linked to the aquastop . Either you’ve not plugged it in or maybe the machine has water in the base ?
This might sound like a silly question but were your fingers dirty when you trying to work it ?
These don’t like ‘dirty’ fingertips as i’ve found out in the past . Can you pop back or ask the customer to try it using a piece of kitchen roll over the tip of the finger .I once spent 20mins with a customers husband trying to get their DW to work with no joy untit the wife walked in and got it started 1st time….her husband was a car mechanic and my hands were dirty and this is why it wouldn’t switch on or start !
If its an intermittent draining prob , first off I’d be looking at the drain hoses/sump/pump for a coin or a button maybe trapped and partially blocking the drain flow .
F18 is a drain problem fault – Brushes/motor is F21
Have you actually checked the drain pump yet for obstructions/foreign objects ? No noise from the appliance when it is meant to be draining is a sign that the pump is either blocked or faulty . If you can hear the pump running but its still not emptying then you’re looking at a probable pipe/hose blockage .
There is a drain pump impellor access plate in the bottom of the tub , at approx the 9 o’clock position . This cover can be levered out ( it is in the instruction book ) and the impellor can be checked. Otherwise , you will need to lay the machine on its side or back – NEVER UPSIDE DOWN – and remove the metal base plate to access the drain pump itself . The pump is a twist fit and so is fairly easy to remove once you get to it. Check it for pieces of glass/broken crockery/bones .
POWER OFF IF INVESTIGATING
E6 is a draining time out . If the water is completely draining but the machine carries on pumping for 5/6 mins after its emptiedthen i’d be looking at a blocked pressure chamber/hose on the sump hose or maybe the pressure switch itself ?
After that , i’d say module
Its probably because most machines these days are much more ‘electronically’ controlled rather than ‘mechanically’ operated. It a bit like modern cars. The omponents are so much more modular , requiring like for like replacement rather than an actual mechanical fix.
Funnily enough , i’m going to look at one of these tomorrow. Exactly same model with exactly the same fault it seems .
Normal cause is failure of the LHS power module
– Part No: 666080 ( its the 666 i always remember ) approx £130:00 + VATIts probably the foamed in sensor failing . It can’t berepalced but there is a mod to get around it. Symptons usually show up as works for 24hrs then switches off/defrosts but will start up again only if switched off and then restarted . Does this sound like it ?
Put the model number into the search facility and you’ll get plenty of pointers…..like this thread http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … hlight=kgv
