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If your model is as the one above and you’re having a problem in that when you first start the cycle all the appliance does is fill/drain/fill/drain and the tap light comes on then the most probable cause is a faulty flow rate meter ( impellor jug part no: 424099 ) Its a small white cylindrical component fitted inside the back left corner of the machine inline with the inlet hose.
It is a fairly common replacement partGot to remember Tim that i only work on BSH kit so anything not from our own stable i have no idea on ! One of the differences of being a company engineer i suspect.
When i did s search on this site and google for bearings for my model , they all came up with what looks like a complete back plate ? Thats why i asked the question about whether this is whats needed. So , i’m guessing the bearings can be bought seperately then ?
As Michael Barrymore might have once said….is that the top middle and bottom leds ?
If they are , then i’d def go back with a set of brushes.
To get into test programme , dial to off…then round to the six o’clock position , hold the spin speed button and turn dial one click clockwise . This will go inot test programme . motor test is 4th click clockwise from the top .
The front needs to come off. 1 screw behind the soap drawer , 1 holding the bottom panel on and the either 2 or 4 on the bottom corners. You will also need to release the front retaining ring for the door seal.
Once the panels off , all will be revealed. The heater has a pressure seal so the best way to get it out is to disconnect all connections , undo the middle nut until its almost on the end of the threaded shaft then give it a gentle tap to push the thread in….this should take a lot of the pressure off the seal and then its a case of wiggling it out.POWER OFF IF ATTEMPTING REPAIR
Yes , it is entirely feasible. I have replaced a few inner door glasses from other brands over the last few years and whilst i was always dubious as to the cause , i normally took the customer at their word.
Then , about a year a go , i was cooking some jacket potatoes in my own oven at home when the inner oven door just shattered into 100’s of pieces and it scared the life out of me as i was stood by the side of it at the time !!!…..funnily enough , it was a diplomat oven too. I now have no second thoughts when i see customers with the same problem.Penguin45 wrote:
nomadPaul wrote:
Take out the filters in the tub base . At approx the 5 o’clock position around the edge of thesump area you will see a small grey cover . Pop this off and remove the float from its tube.P45.
Hello oh Flightless one 😀 , i have been in touch with the above poster…..its a model with the impellor jug and so have advised accordingly 😉
Try holding in the start button for 3 secs and turning the selector switch one click Anti-clockwise ( i.e 12 o’clock to 11 o’clock ) This is the way to enter the test programme.
….and the Rinse LED flashing is indeed a fault in the drive circuit so i think you’ve got the right component. Only hope the motor’s not goosed .
Does the interior light still have the clear plastic cover in place or has it long gone ?
If its missing then the most likely problem is moisture/steam getting into the electronics via the exposed lamp assembly which may show up as a flickering / disappearing display .
I’m guessing you’ve checked the domestic socket and plug to rule out a simple loose connection ?Most extractor hoods are protected by a 3 or 5 amp fuse as Washman has suggested. A bulb blowing will sometimes cause these fuses to blow . You will need to find where the plug/socket is located and check this fuse. If it has gone , please make sure it is replaced by the SAME RATED FUSE. A lot of the time , the appliance plug and socket is situated behind the extractor chimney but as i don’t know your model , i can’t say it is 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}.
Semi-Intergrated will have a control panel on the outside of the appliance so would have a 3/4 length decor door.
Intergrated would have a full size decor door with the control buttons on the top edge so that when the appliance door is shut , no buttons/display are visible.Hope this helps
Is this on a wash cycle ? It sounds like a heating element failure. You will need to check the resistance of the wash heater and it should be approx 25 – 35 ohms . If it reads open circuit then there’s your problem.
POWER OFF IF INVESTIGATING
The part number for the full dispenser is 490467 and retails at about £43+ V.A.T
It may be possible to just replace the lid and spring but this is not always successful.There is a level float on this machine and the chances are that this is stuck or gunged up and so not rising when the water rises.
Take out the filters in the tub base . At approx the 5 o’clock position around the edge of thesump area you will see a small grey cover . Pop this off and remove the float from its tube. PLEASE NOTE THE ORIENTATION O THE FLOAT – I.E GREY SIDE UP , CLEAR SECTION DOWN .
Clean this float and also the area that the float runs up and down in. You may find it all clogged up with grease , fat and gunge. I sometimes pour a little hot water down here to release the greasy deposits.
Refit the float making sure it is the right way up , and then try the machine again. It should now work ok.
