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F21 is motor circuit fault – check the brushes and replace if needed. If the brushes are ok , it may be the module as they can get ‘spiked’ by electrical noise …..HOWEVER , regardless of what you change the F21 fault code will not go until you have entered the test programme so if you change the brushes this is what you need to do to reset.
Set selector switch to off
turn selector switch round to the 6 o’clock position
Hold the spin speed selector button and turn selector switch one click CLOCKWISE to the 7 o’clock position.
release spin speed button.
Turn selector switch back to the off position and this should reste the F21 fault code.Does the drain pump sound as if its running when you put it on to drain or can you just hear a faint buzz? Sometimes if a pump has been left running for a long time in a jammed position , it can damage the motor coils and cause the pump to fail.
If it buzzes rather than runs normally , then either the pumps had it or theres something else still blocking the pump blades.
If it runs normally but doesn’t drain then you may have to look for a blockage …..maybe in the drain hose connection if its connected to a sink ?
Re: Bosch WF0285SGB One minute
iadom wrote:After two weeks without problems I got a call back to this today with same fault.
Turned out ot be a tiny, inch long, thin strip of clear plastic floating around in the pump/sump hose.
It had come off the sealing lip from a tub of sweets. :rolls:
Thats normally a dishwasher prob 🙂
CJA , different type of dishwasher. This is the plastic base model where the drain pump is accessed from underneath.
To get to the drain pump , you will need to lay the appliance on its back to remove the metal base panel. The workings of the dishwasher will then be exposed .
YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE AS MUCH WATER AS POSSIBLE FROM INSIDE THE MACHINE BEFORE DOING THIS . ALSO MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE MACHINE FROM THE MAINS AND I WOULD ALSO ADVISE DISCONNECTING THE MAINS WATER AND DRAIN HOSE FROM THEIR CONNECTIONS BEFORE MANEOUVERING THE APPLAINCE AROUND.
once you have the panel off , you can get to the ‘twist-fit’ drain pump and check for blockages
The fridge section on these models is just an insulated box with all the coldness coming from the freezer section via a fan.
Check the top of the freezer section and look in through the grills at the front. Can you see it all iced over ? If the answer is yes , then a quick fix is to switch the whole appliance off for 48hrs. Be aware that if you go down this route , there will be a lot of water coming out the front AND also filling the clear container above the compressor at the rear of the machine. After a complete defrost , your fridge and freezer should both start working ok.
Now , how old is the appliance and have you had any modifications done to it ? There is an fault relating to the defrosting side of the freezer evaporator but this normally occurs within the first 18 months of use. If your appliance is less than 2 yrs old , the repair should be carried out free of charge by BSH ( Bosch Siemens ) . If its older than 2 yrs , then you might have to appeal to their ‘benevolent side’ for a solution.
Just be sure to make sure the new ‘hose clip type thingy’ 🙂 is positioned properly when the new one is fitted onto the hose .
Yes , it can be removed . Long nose pliers can sometimes be used or , as Don said , its possible to chip away at it . Remember to orientate yourself in the direction it unscrews . Its anti-clockwise but don’t forget that you’ll be looking ‘upwards’ so get it right.
now the main advice
MAKE SURE YOU ARE WEARING DECENT GLOVES AND A PAIR OF GOGGLES IF YOU INTEND TO DO THIS THIS WAY
There is now a tool provided to help remove the ‘tight’ fitting lens covers. It’s a cup that sits on the glass cover and gives good purchase which also incorporates a handle that allows a two handed grip to give the cover a real good turn !
It comes with a new lens cover kit….but i don’t have the part number to hand. Will try and get it tomorrow.Hmmmm , strange one . Are you sure the wires have gone back onto the correct contacts on the new motor , remembering that the pins on the motor AREN’T numbered consecutively ?
It’s worth checking the numbers under the connectors and it should be , from right to left as you look at the motor , 1 4 2 3 .
The colour coding is as follows where the cables are concerned :-
Small White on 1
Pink on 4
big white on 2
Nothing on 3……And make sure you havn’t connected the Earth onto pin 3 as this will probably form a constant motor circuit…..There is a seperate earth connector on the side of the motor
Of the 3 or 4 times i’ve seen this fault its always been one of the door switches faulty although its only on standard microwaves that its occurred .
Has the machine been moved recently ? I have had a couple where the floor pan has been slightly buckled upwards after being moved and its this bent pan that causes the flood protection microswitch to operate.
Re: BOSCH WAA24270GB
iadom wrote:Thats why I said ‘may have’. I saw my first WAA sealed drum over 14 months ago, had to BER one with bearing failure on a sealed drum that was just over 2 years old, that was several months ago now. 😥
Its a definite step backwards….even though they are the bottom end of the Bosch market . It’s the ones with no accessible pump for the customer that are really ‘interesting’ !
