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Re: Bosch WFR2868GB/05 bearing replacement
OldManCoyote wrote:That’s interesting. Gives me a good base with which to challenge quotes from now on… 😉
We tend to fit a whole new rear tub which cuts down the time considerably although is more expensive !
F:12 is a variant coding problem. Have you changed the control module for any reason.
it basically means the module has been coded incorrectly or needs re-coding.
They sometimes get mixed up in that some Technik machines…mainly ovens …..are Siemens and also the fact that BSH do service some Technik ppliances under warranty.
Error code 3 is a water inlet problem….possibly slow or no fill . I’d be checking the pressure chamber at the back for blockages first and then i’d be looking at a faulty inlet valve or low pressure maybe ?
The heater is at the bottom on the right hand side . Approx resistance of 23 – 28 ohms should be read.
Bonjour Helen ( sorry , thts about the extent of my french vocabulary ) , I can’t seem to find any error codes relating to the number 1 ?
It may be that the test programme has been accidentally activated . Have you tried switching it off from the mains for a few minutes or so and then switching back on ?
I don’t think F:12 is an exisiting error code on these machines as the error codes start at F:16.
F:21 though would = no or uncontrolled motor action ?
On some other models F:12 would sometimes mean water in the base operating the flood protection system , so this is why they may have said about a leak but on the model you quoted that would be F:23
If the seal leaks on the motor , water gets into the motor and bearings causing quite heavy corrosion. The whining is the bearings running really roughly.
Just a quick correction to Helo’s post. The FD number isn’t the serial number , its the manafacturing date. The serial number will be a (normally) 6 figure number after the FD number.
On the door label you will have the ENR ( model number ) which in your case will be WAE28364GB/** then there will be an FD number – this will be 4 numbers which should look something like 8912 or 9001 then finally the serial number which will be 5 or 6 numbers long .
Hope this helps
Your appliance has a hot and cold fill valve. My guess would be that the cold valve is sticking open.
The initial fill for wash probably uses just the hot water valve and the rinse is always in cold.Try selecting a cold wash and see if it overfills then on the first fill. If it does , then you’ll prbably require a new cold fill valve .
There is a modified hose for some washer dryers but would need to have the full ENR number before i could confirm whether your’s is one of them. Its the small ‘U’ bend hose connecting the little condensor box to the big condensor container. The hose has been re-shaped to stop excessive drawer condensation/steam.
And with the dryer duct , did you remove it to clean it or did you just access it from the top by removing the fan ? The normal build up is right at the bottom where the condensor duct joins the tub and normally only be completely removing the duct can you clean it fully .
I’d still be thinking about a new door lock. Does it double beep at you when you try and start it ?
Try to start it with the door open and then with the door closed . If the results are the same then that should push you in the right direction.
IIRC the start light will always flash once a cycle is selected but should go to a solid light when it does start.
I have seen this a couple of times. Dryer will show as starting , counter will decrease but no drum action. On both occasions it was the door lock gone faulty.
