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Ok . This is a Smeg built washer dryer and i hate working on them 👿 😕
For EO6 but with the pump running ok , you’ll prob be looking at a blockage at the end of the pressure switch hose where it goes into the drum. Unfortunately , its not the easiest to get to but there may be other ways to clear the prob.
1. remove the hose from the bottom of the pressure switch and try and clear it by blowing air down it to try and clear the blockage at the drum. Soemtimes a squirt of boiling water down the hose via a syringe will also clear it. *BE WARY WHEN REMOVING THE HOSE FROM THE PRESSURE SWITCH BECAUSE THEY CAN BE BRITTLE*
2. Run a decent de-scaler through the appliance and hope the crud/gunge gets cleared out. *BETTER TO KEEP AN EYE ON THIS ONE AS THE FAULT MAY ALSO CAUSE THE
MACHINE TO OVERFILL AS A RESULT*
The thing you don’t want to have to do is get to the hose where it joins the tub.
HTH
What you’ve described is more a case of the holes being blocked where the water comes out of the roof area that fills the conditioner compartment. A lack of flow means not enough water etering the conditioner compartment and therefore not raising it enough to start the syphon action.
Once you’ve removed the drawer , look upwards into the roof area. Is it all gunged up with black mould ?
I’m betting that the centre section , whether the 4 hole or the multi-hole version will be clogged and the source of your problem.To test the syphon device , fill the detergent drawer conditioner compartment slowly from your sink tap and see if it starts flowing out the back once it reaches a certain level.
Thats actually a Siemens made oven for Technik but i’m not sure the number is totally correct. Can you re-check carefully that model number and re-post it.
The best thing to do would be a full defrost . The cold air for the fridge is supplied from the freezer via an air channel. This may be frozen up and stopping the air from being blown into the fridge compartment.
Find somewhere else to store the food for 48hrs , switch off at the mains and open the doors. Leave it for 48hrs and then switch on again. It will hopefully right itself.
P.S Keep an eye on the clear container at the rear of the F/F as it may fill up with the defrosted water and may need emptying out after a day or so.
For the money you have to pay out to do the course , i’m not sure it’s financially viable. Unfortunately , i can’t remember the name of the company that i did the course with , just that it was in Chesterfield. Of course , you have to find accomodation costs too if its away from home.
I did my 16th edition wiring in 2005 over a 6 week course…and it cost me a few grand to do it. Not long after that i got my present job and have never done any serious electrical work since so in hindsight , for me anyway , it was a wasted process.
Wizard is correct on both model and fault code 06 is a door lock problem…..however , i’d also check to make sure the heater isn’t going down to earth as they can cause funny faults including door lock probs
It’s actually a U as the prefix.
If there is no power to the fan when circotherm is selected but the heater element heats up then it sounds like it’s the control unit . I have had to replace a couple beforehand…..and they’re not cheap.
Sometimes you can see the blown track/component or even smell the ‘burning’ on the control board
First thing would to carry out a full manual defrost – switch off the appliance , doors open for 36 – 48hrs then restart it. There may be a build up of ice on the diverter flap stopping it from closing and allowing cold air to enter the fridge for too long. By completely defrosting , you can then eliminate the ice build up.
Are the contents of the veg drawers freezing up in the fridge ?
Have you checked the drain hose….especially if its connected to a sink waste pipe. F18 is no draining…or slow draining so a blockage in that area is a big possibility
Phil , have a read of this topic. Bosch/Siemens are the same animal
