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The best thing you could do is check the control board for burnt out components/track.
It sounds like a component within the dishwasher has gone and taken out the board but only a good inspection of the board can confirm this.
My bet would be the diverter motor in the instantaneous water heater.
POWER OFF – PLUG OUT IF INVESTIGATING
Martin is correct
” E09 – heating circuit is intermittent. (resistance , wire harness , safety relay pins on power module )
measure heating resistance – check wires “
Unfortunately , i don’t have any resistance values which really doesn’t help .
The model number is incorrect Solls. It should start with a Wxxxxxx.
If the temp limiter hasn’t popped and its still not heating , it may be the heater element open circuit.
You will need to be checking the element for resistance which should be approx 35ohms .POWER OFF AND PLUG OUT WHEN TESTING
The bigger component is the real pointer. Yes , its definitely the diverter motor triac…..so in all probability the water point motor has gone and taken the board out with it.
New board ( or whatever you independant blokes do to get a board sorted ) and IWH required
Without the correct ENR , its hard to check but IIRC , that would be the triac for the water point motor ( diverter motor to switch between top and bottom spray arms ) so it will also probably need a new Instantaneous water heater .
But as mentioned , would need the correct model number to confirm.
Re: Sharp Combination microwave/convection oven
trap0001 wrote:I completely agree with WTF above (though not necessarily his libelous delivery). £27 for a motor that probably costs the Koreans half a dozen Won to make (pennies) is scandalous.
But this is Great Britain and we do like to pay silly money for things don’t we – these prices are set by the white good distributors who simply don’t want us to fix our gear – they want us to buy new.
What a great first post. Do you have any idea what this site is about ? This is a group of independant engineers who spend a lot of time and effort giving general members of the public very good advice on whitegoods repairs.
Answer me this . Why would engineers try and get you to buy NEW appliances , thus taking work away from themselves ?Perhps you should read some of the happy replies from customers/public members where this site has saved them 100’s of £’s by leading them to repair their own appliances for low cost !!!
Superfix is correct. The original TOC has a small nut on the inside. Its a bit fiddly to fit and best to do it before fitting the new lamp assy .
I take it that it’s the lamp assy fitted in the top right back corner ?
The original lamp is held in with ‘sprung clips’ around the lamp body. Theres 4 IIRC . You will need to access it from the back and push the clips in whilst gently pushing the lamp assy out into the oven cavity. Best put an old towel down in the oven base as unless you have arms like a chimpanzee or an assistant , you can’t reach inside whilst pushing the old one through.
You’ll also find that you’ll prob have to bend the lamp connections on the new part ( 424077 ? ) to allow proper connection of the cables and to stop them touching the casing.
we don’t condone live testing Mark…and it would make no difference anyway as the buttons are all part of a control module .
Its difficult to have a definite answer with your fault and as the control module is approx £120:00 , i wouldn’t like to say that the module is def at fault.
Once you get into the reset , you have to switch off the machine , open the door , close it and then press on. This should now be back to a point where you can select a cycle and start a new one.
You’ll need a closer look at the control module to see if there’s any damage there
POWER OFF IF INVESTIGATING
The fill/start process you should be looking for is this :
The matrix ( heat exchanger ) should fill fully until it overflows at the top to the right hand side channel which then flows into the top of the pressure chamber.
As the water flows through the pressure chamber the little arm on the round chamber should pop out which then opens a valve inside the applaince which then allows all the water from the heat exchanger to drain into the appliance.
Now , if the heat exchanger isn’t emptying into the machine and the water coming into the machine doesn’t turn off and just keeps flowing over the top of the heat exchanger and through the pressure chamber then you either have a faulty switch on the pressure chamber…..or more likely a faulty control PCB.
You can check the operation of the pressure chamber microswitches with a multimeter .
I hope this is a good enough explaination for you to follow .
POWER OFF IF INVESTIGATING
If ‘0’ has come up in the display and the machine is pumping out , this would indicate the ‘re-set’ function has been selected. However , this is normally only achieved by holding down two buttons at any one time. Therefore , the first thing i would do is check that none of the other buttons are stuck or wedged down
Normal 3 causes of steam are :
Blocked condensor box
Faulty Condensor inlet valve
Condensor container hose mod ( which you’ve already replaced )You could also make sure the dryer fan seal is seated properly .
Re: Bosch WFF2000 – no draining or spinning at end of cycle
Rafkoo wrote:
By the way, one of the screws was already missing… that wasn’t me… 😉No it isn’t…..they only have 3 in ! 😀 😀 😀
Hi Rob , we can’t really condone the test that you’re suggesting. What i will say is that the resisitance value of the temp limiter should be a very low resistance value in ohms i.e practically zero ( depending on the accuracy of the meter you’re using ) when its in its working condition
Temp limiters have 2 states – closed or open circuit
Hope this helps
