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It could be a slow closing water inlet valve ? when the machine is over-filling during a cycle , turn the selector switch to off , pull out the detergent drawer and look to see if water is still trickling in from the holes in the ‘roof’ part of the machine where the drawer comes from.
As its a WAS model , which is a relatively new model , it should still be under its 2 yr warranty .
You should give BSH a call if it is less than 2 yrs since purchase
To be honest , you shouldn’t really be opening the door mid-cycle on a dryer. It can cause the overheat temp limiter to ‘pop’ , causing heating probs.
Can i ask you why you are checking the progress mid-way ? This is an automatic sensor dryer , is it not , and therefore the load shouldn’t need checking once you have selected the drying cycle you require. Just start it and let it do it’s stuff. Its how they work best and most effeciently
If you do interrupt it , it will go back to the beginning of the selected cycle but will automatically adjust the time and heat after a few minutes once it’s checked the state of the drying load in the machine. If , for example , the cycle time goes back to the start time of 1hr50 after an interruption , after a few minutes it may well jump back down to the time and cycle stage that it was before the interruption.
The best reveal of any film – http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=5xXH6DQNj … re=related
Re: Siemens Oven HB750550B/02
Bryan , Er:15 is a ‘cooker too hot’ error – it means the interior of the oven has gone above 350*C and locked the door.
Never seen the fault personally so have no idea what might be the cause
We don’t reccomend Soda crystals being used in Bosch/Siemens machines. We’ve been advised that constant use of Soda crystals can cause a reaction/corrosion on the aluminium drum cross and can lead to black marks on washing.
if the little switch you’re talking about is between the heater termibnals , this will only work when there is water flowing through the heater as its a safety pressure switch.
Hence , the no-heating fault that occurs with low water levels .Re: Bosch SGS0902GB/04 DW
iadom wrote:I’ve seen that as well, you have to physically rip the cable out of the back panel. 🙂
…or you pull the machine fwd and it stops working ….after ripping the engulfed plug out of the socket behind the dishwasher 😆
i would look at low water levels first – when you first switch the machine on and it begins to fill , do you hear any strange ‘kerdunk’ noises and maybe a knocking seemingly coming through your water pipes? If yes , this could indicate a blocked side water matrix and hose.
You would need to get the appliance out of its cupboard and then remove the left hand side panel to investigate.There are a couple of threads on here concerning the problem , one with some photo’s of what you should be looking for.
Power off before attempting this .
Steve , as Penguin has stated , the module problem is the LEAST likely of the 3 main possible reasons.
Lack of water is prob number 1 reason
Open circuit heater element number 2
Module track/relay prob – distant 3rdThe clips will need to be cut off mate. If you order a new seal , it should come with extra screws and these are used to secure the tubs together…..although , tbh , i’ve only ever changed the complete rear tub , never knocked the bearings out.
Re: BOSCH upright frost-free freezer – icicles forming!
The most common cause of this , if i read the description right , would probably be a blockage of the drain hole by some ice at the rear of the evaporator. As the appliance goes into a defrost stage , the defrosted ice has nowhere to drain , if the hole’s blocked , and so the only place for it to go would be back in to the freezer compartment. Hence the icicles forming and , normally , a solid block of ice under the bottom tray.
As its a GSU model , i would reccomend a full 48hr defrost, appliance switched off and door left open , with a few towels around the base. This should clear the blocked drain hole of ice and get your freezer back to basics.
Chris , the most common problem to cause this , is failure of the motor which switches the flow between the top and bottom spray arms. They don’t work simaltaneously , but in rotation. i.e water supplied to top arm for 60secs – pause ( as motor switches ) then 60secs to lower spray arm. If this motor jams or fails , you will find that only one spray arm will be working OR your household electrics may trip.
Unfortunately , this motor is housed in the Instantaneous water heater and would therefore require a complete IWH and fitting. Even for a trained Bosch man like myself , it can sometimes take over 90mins to replace and TBH i wouldn’t reccommend it as a DIY job.
The other possibility is that on the main control module the relay for the motor has blown which is a quicker job but the part will cost more. Normally , this component has blown for a reason.In a worst case scenario , the actuator motor failure will also take out the control module which would require both parts replaced.
In my eyes , if you want this fixed , you’d do best in calling in an experienced engineer…or cutting your losses.
