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Looks like they are one and the same as the stat appears to incorporate the switch. Not a nice price as you say.
🙂Am I missing something here as the part referenced is the thermostat, not the switch. Or are they one and the same?
Unfortunately I don’t think you can hold them to supplying a free replacement given the other options on offer that I would say fulfil their obligations surrounding the recall. It is pretty cheeky of them to expect you to have to check daily for stock though as I don’t see why their systems couldn’t deal with that.
Has this got the right plug on it? – https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203418175874?hash=item2f5cab0982:g:BNoAAOSw43Bgaet8
Sounds like either a bad joint or a sticking relay on the PCB. I’d be guessing a relay though. Should be quite easy to fix if you are ok with soldering and can see a part number on the relay..
I have a HUE61K that is a few years old and it can do this at times. The glass of the triple glazed doors is full open at the bottom so any steam escaping from the bottom oven goes up between the top oven door glass. It’s a bit odd but doesn’t seem to do any harm.
As for Hotpoint’s ‘answer’, well there isn’t much to say!Have you partly detached the stat from the metal plate, as if it’s hanging in free air like that it won’t work.
Tally100 wrote:Hi , yes I can see the filaments have blown I have a spare 28w g9 but it’s not an oven bulb , should I try that one as well
No, a non-oven bulb won’t last long at all as the heat will kill it. I’d still be taking a careful look at the lampholder to see that the contacts are nice and clean.
Can you see that the actual filaments have blown, as I’m wondering if you are getting a poor connection at the lampholder which is getting hot and going high resistance. Take a good look at the wire connections on the blown bulbs, because if either have gone black then it’s a lampholder issue.
I understand why you feel aggrieved but as said it could well be the real thing and Bosch, or Hanning have changed their supplier. As a side note, I’d be quite happy using a pattern part for the drain pump as it’s a very simple part and not safety critical.
🙂Looking at that switch assembly it’s possible the actual switches have failed if some functions work and not others. If the OP is happy soldering they should be easy to replace. They would be something like these, but the exact type would have to be checked.
It doesn’t sound like any power is getting to the board at all. I’d be doing some more circuit tracing if it were mine.
If the control board is mains powered and has its own power supply to produce the correct chip voltages then there should be a mains input appearing on it somewhere.Faber’s website (https://www.faberhoods.co.uk/faber-support/service-and-spare-parts/) says service is managed by Whirlpool and to either phone 0345 548 7797 or email office@kitchenex.co.uk
