Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: Caple – WDI 2201
A1engineer wrote:spring incorrectly fitted on door catch??
Tried that. That what makes it so baffling!
Landlord got 24 of these machines in the block of flats.
They are all approaching to the end of useful life as they are about 6/7 years old. He got a number of these appliances for cannibalising.
Re: famous customers?
quite a while back I fixed a premier league footballer’s built in lux washer. (or was it first division?) – Wolverhampton Wonderers and Irish footballer. something Foley.
Built in electrolux washer with blocked drain pump (I think).
He got this built in coffee machine, he asked if I knew how to use it as he couldn’t figure it out. I replied I wouldn’t know how to use it but a cup of coffee would be nice though!
Re: LG WM-12225FD spinning problem
Thanks,
I have replaced all the shockers on the machine so it seems to be doing a lot better. The parts were not as expensive as I thought.
As my experiences with shockers, it could be anything between £10 to £30 each, but with this machine, £4 each, and they are genuine.
Re: Homark Double Oven – lights on but no power to ovens
ApplianceMan – TBH – I wouldn’t know where to bypass.
I have the photo of the oven, would it help if I send you the photo. It won’t be the wires just the front of the oven, see if you do recognise it? If you do, then perhaps PM me on how to bypass it? The clock/timer is mechanical with the flip number thingy like a very old clock radio before the LCD display.
Re: Homark Double Oven – lights on but no power to ovens
Will let you know how I got on. As for by passing the clock, it’s not something I would do as it could compromise the safety of the oven unless I am wrong. I could do with a wiring diagrams so I can figure out how to by-pass it and not compromise the safety though in theory.
I don’t really like the oven as it’s so old and greasy!
Re: Homark Double Oven – lights on but no power to ovens
Returned to the Homark Oven, rather hard to track down the faults.
One of the grill element has low insulation, so I am replacing it in the hope that it would restore the power back to the oven.
Re: Homark Double Oven – lights on but no power to ovens
twicknix wrote:don’t know what you mean by automatic.
Now I realised what you mean. The timer is set at manual in the shape of a hand or some kind of heat symbol – still no change.
The oven cleaning man agreed to come out to pull the oven out for ease of access. Hopefully I should check every wires for connections.
I saw some threads on thermocouple – where is this normally found?
No model number to hand as there’s no markings on it – I am getting concerned due to the lack of parts available for repairs other than elements.
Re: ESL6115 – tripping electrics
<img src="/Users/jamnixon/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2011/11/10/20111110-165024/10112011038.jpg
/Users/jamnixon/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2011/11/10/20111110-165024/10112011039.jpg” alt=”” class=”bbcode-img”>Turned out that the heater was tripping the electrics due to low insulation and the water leak from the feed pipe finished it off.
Removing the heater was very straightforward but putting them on is another matter. I could not get the clamp onto the heater unit inside so I had to resort to cutting out a hole in the rear to get access with the client’s permission. It worked a treat! I tried all sort of ways, my long nosed pliers was not long enough, my grip is not strong enough to squeeze, access from the other size is simply not accessible due to my biggish hand.
No doubt I shall get a ribbing from others saying why didn’t I do it the other way, etc. I covered the hole with a nice thick plastic sheet and glued it on. It looks rather neat I must say! Shame it’s only on the rear.
Re: Some worrying remarks made about Amica
timdowning wrote:You get these sort of comments thrown about. I get them from the delivery drivers. The comment was probably born from the same logic when customers say they won’t buy a certain make because 20 years ago they had a troublesome one.
Bit like me with Indesit! 🙂
Re: masterpart or connect.
I use three suppliers – Masterpart, Connect and Qualtex. They are all good, I use their websites all the time, Masterpart are great for cross-referencing of parts wheras Connect and Qualtex aren’t that good.
Connect loves to beat Qualtex on prices and they will bend over backward to match price, the downside is that you have to do it through your sales rep. I don’t dislike them but you don’t get personal relationship with them besides Connect are behaving like Tesco – too big for its own boot.
Qualtex are fab, I prefer them out of the three. It’s one guy who looks after you, build good relationship and it always the same guy you get to deal with.
Re: Hoover – OPH616
Turned out that it was the motor causing the mother of all problems. Low insulation on motor although I cleaned it up yesterday and re-tested it but not it gone back to low insulation again. Client says don’t bother.
Re: Hoover – OPH616
I appreciate the input, I am having enough troubles with Hoover washing machines. I dealt with two today with similar original faults, the OPH one is more messed up and I will try resolve it by replacing door interlock and carbon brushes.
The other one a Nextra which is about 10 years old, easy to diagnose – buttons fell through which was typical also needs new door seal but parts seems rather thin on the ground and getting mixed result on type of brushes and the lack of cross references. (I will have to buy each set and hope for the best!). It was the carbon brushes worn with low insulation causing the weird washes like I said similar fault as the OPH.
When there’s a will then there’s a way! I will get to the bottom of it!
Re: Hoover – OPH616
Believe me, I did check for it. It’s been cleaned off too! I do not know why people would do that!
