Forum Replies Created
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Posts
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Re: WTA Membership charges
I think £300 is fine. As we now exceed the membership of ‘cough’ – DASA, then they will be reaching a wider audience of like minded people – the type they want as customers.
Or try the £295 + VAT trick…… 😉 Psychologically much less than £300!!Steve.
Re: Comms Channel
Yep, I’m OK with that too.
How much interest is there from the south of England, Ken ie: memberships?Steve.
Re: Is the end of our world nigh..?
Exactly!! :tup:
Honesty and integrity count for a lot these days, and people want that. The “3 B’s brigade” (buy it, boot it, bin it) – will always want something for nowt. Most people are waking up to the wanton waste of materials and I for one find more and more people spending over £100 on a repair. Not so 2 years back. Great news!! Long may it continue!!Steve.
Re: Hotpoint WD440 flashing ‘wash’ LED.
The thing is… it filled and emptied and spun as normal but the wash light kept flashing.
Doesn’t matter now on this one – she’s dumped it and bought something better – that won’t be too difficult. :rolls:Thanks everyone!!!
Steve.
Re: Creda IW160V dead.
Yeah, you’re the lucky one Jim – bl00dy loads round here. Most are washer driers unfortunately,they’re heavy and invariably shoe – horned into the tightest part of the kitchen. Luverly job…. :rolls:
Steve.
Re: Hotpoint WD440 flashing ‘wash’ LED.
Did you say compressor? 😕
I did try the buttons and all seemed to be free enough in their positions. So it looks as if my suspicions were right – and here we are – yet another example of the utter garbage Hotpoint / Indesit are producing – not even 2 years old.
Why doesn’t Indesit just send their entire production straight from the factory to landfill and cut out the middleman? 😈Steve.
Re: Creda IW160V dead.
Yes, it’s similar; but the tech info is not detailed enough to diagnose anything. 😥
Shame, ’cause I’m getting close to avoiding these heaps. And that’s unusual for me. 😉Steve.
Re: zanussi auto flashing E90
Communication fault between user interface and PCB. (fascia PCB and power board). Usually the connections on the fascia are oxidised and just need cleaning.
Remove the fascia, disconnect the wiring plug, carefully remove the board from the fascia and clean the edge connections. Then refit into fascia and gently pinch the plug with pliers to tighten it before fitting. Refit fascia and all should be OK. If not, check the loom between the fascia and the main PCB. If that’s OK, then it’s PCB failure.Hope that helps,
Steve.
Re: Is the end of our world nigh..?
Well said, Ken – but something else to add to this topic…..
WTA. Whitegoods Trade Association. The more independents we can get to join, the more clout we will have. Our collective voice will have to be taken seriously. If you want to fight back at the unfair prices of parts and the lack of technical info available that prevents you from being competitive – then we are going to try and make a difference. But the trade need to mobilise – not just moan and do nothing. That’s what the manufacturers are expecting us to do. We’re all despaired at what is happening in this trade – but we’ve been saying that for years. 😉
The machines at B&Q are for the type of customer I neither want nor need. Typically they will have 6 kids and “only use it twice a week” or they have a £150 washer in the kitchen and a £1000 60″ plasma in the lounge. 😉 Sharp learning curve on the horizon!!!
This is actually good for us, as they will usually only make that mistake once. Then I’ll either repair it or write it off and sell them an ISE. They need me more than I need them.
So who hasn’t signed up for the effort………if not, why not? It’s your livelihood that is at stake.Steve.
Re: diamond h wiring
The only time you need a link wire is to convert the old style green backed regulators to the new style beige square ER40’s. The 23ER is the old version of the 33ER. The wiring connections (clockwise) are:-
Right side top tag – load B. (4)
Right side bottom tag (‘L’ shaped) – neutral. (P2)
Middle bottom tag – load A. (2)
Bottom left tag – line or live in. (P1)
Top left tag – pilot. (S)
Whatever the tag may be labelled on the back of the regulator, the tag and wiring positions are the same. If the regulator is the later E40 type, you must convert the wiring using the diagram and link wire supplied.
Steve.
Re: AWG3493 completely dead…BUT… door locks??? please ad
Have you looked at the carbons? I’ve had some weird faults caused by worn out brushes on these. Also if the pump is jammed or dead, the machine will appear not to function for a minute or more while the drain pump would normally be working. Worth a look!! 😉
Steve.
Re: diamond h wiring
Ahh, you are referring to the new style Diamond H regulator – square beige unit. 😉
The wiring is shown on http://www.diamond-h-controls.co.uk. Click on ‘Energy regulators’ and then ‘wiring diagrams’. The internal switching is detailed and you can easily convert old to new.Hope that helps,
Steve.
Re: Cooker wiring conversion
Yep, non – challenging straight swap. Beware the numbers on a TA500 are not in any order. (ie:- 3 4 1 2 5 6 across the stat IIRC. :wink:)
Steve.
Re: zanussi
Can’t find that model number – ZWD14270W not on TDS. Can you post the PNC number?
Steve.
