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aqualectric
ParticipantRe: oven door glass glue/sealant
johnnyj wrote:I use silcoset158 from connect does the trick never had one popping out yet. jj
Said Katie Price in an interview today….. :rotl:
Steve.
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ParticipantRe: Proline fool!
Is the cut out you refer to a small black unit with 2 tags and a brass threaded fitting? If so, there are usually 2 fitted to most of these oriental machines. One at the back in the middle of the tub (screws up into a threaded bush under the tub) and one behind the right hand side panel (fitted in the same way). You need to change both as one affects the other.
Power off before any inspection. :plug:
Steve.
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ParticipantRe: POND PUMP
Our 2 goldfish both died inexplicably about a month ago. Both alive and moving normally, went to feed them later and both were floating around dead as doornails. 😯
It wasn’t clear why this had happened until I went to pull out the pump…… :zap: OMG…the pump must have shorted and the water was live!!! I soon dropped it!! The pump was double insulated and for some reason hadn’t popped the RCD. Fortunately, the shock I got was only for an instant, so I was not hurt.
Poor things – they had been with us for 14 years – my mother in law bought them when my son Sam was born. Needless to say, I have had to look after them ever since. Sam only noticed they were missing this week when he noticed his grandad loading the tank on his car to take it to the tip. This is despite him lifting several Coke bottles down from the shelf where the tank had been…………:roll:Steve.
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ParticipantRe: Zanussi IZ161w
Try the connections to the user interface (fascia PCB) – they loosen off and become oxidized so the machine appears dead. Remove the fascia, unscrew and pop the PCB out of its location. Clean the edge connector and gently crimp the plug with pliers to tighten it. Refit and test. You should now have a display. If you have a display, you can run the diagnostics. 😉
Hope that helps,
Steve.
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ParticipantRe: junk
No brute force at all required – easy to do with the special tool. No real chance of injury. My wrists and knuckles are worth more to me than the cost of the tool. Mine has paid for itself time and again. 8)
Steve.
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ParticipantRe: Fame at last.
Penguin45 wrote:Fix – he’s got a certificate for “World Young Achiever” …….
:p45:
Written on papyrus…….. :innocent:
Steve.
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ParticipantRe: AEG L14710 VIT built in washer dryer
Run the diagnostics to find the stored error code. With the selector set to position 1, press and hold Start / Pause and the next button to the left of it. Switch on. Hold for 5 secs and the LED’s will flash. Turn the selector slowly, one position at a time to fill on the different valves, test heater, drain and spin. The drier is then checked. Continue through to position 10 and the last error code will flash in the display. Fault codes are in the Code book or Known Error codes. To cancel the diagnostic switch off and on again. (You may have to do this twice if EEO appears).
Faults on these are usually door interlock, pump or PCB faults. Although on a 2006 machine, brushes are a possibility.Steve.
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ParticipantRe: Proline TDC6A Condennsor Dryer
Start relay behind the fascia is the most likely culprit. The relay will start the machine and fail about 5 – 10 minutes into the cycle. Wait for the relay coil to cool and it will seem to work again for a short time. Easiest way to tell is to ask the customer if, when the machine stops, it will work if they hold the start button in? 😉
HTH,
Steve.
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ParticipantRe: Belling IDW604 dishwasher leak.
I had that on a DF53 Hotpoint – a split rotor that caused a huge flood. These, however are stainless steel rotors; the only thing I did notice was 2 holes in the edge of the rotor. The holes were very small: about 1.5mm across, situated just above the joint seam on either side down the middlle of the lower rotor. Couldn’t fathom why they were there…….??
Steve.
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ParticipantRe: New way to replace Bosch brushes.
Well said, Chris!!
I think it is a privilege to be involved in UKW and to all the engineers that have helped me in the past few years, thanks very much!
The decline in this industry came with the onslaught of the sheds with cheap machines and the subsequent closing of the independent shops in my area. These shops and service centres were full of real characters – and my formative years in this trade were very happy ones. We knew each other and would help each other out with problems. As the shops closed, so the people I knew left for other things or started on their own. The trade as I knew it floated apart; the engineers now became islands.
UKW has accomplished several major things – to allow individual engineers access to parts information, technical help to allow you to repair stuff you’d never have considered before, a wider insight into an industry that we all work in, and most of all, the community thing. That is probably the best thing that UKW has done for this trade. Long may it continue.
There are a lot of people on this site who give freely of their time and expertise to help others. The community thing can help bolster the conditions and brighten the future for this trade. Some are involved in the Whitegoods Trade Association, (all of whom pay their own way at meetings BTW); the sole purpose of these meetings are to further the fortunes of this trade for everyone.
You may not take it seriously; but sooner or later the Government will step in and regulate us whether we like it or not. It’s starting – the F – Gas regs start on 4th July. What next?
Martin’s anarchic humour is poignant because sometimes he writes bluntly what the average Joe public is probably thinking. Uncomfortable as it is, the public will and do repair their own stuff; we have little control over that. If you give them advice and they succeed, they will remember the gesture and use you again. If you are obstuctive, you will lose respect and the chance of the job. It’s a tough call.
If I had to pay to access this site, I’d be happy. If UKW sells a few sets of brushes and access is kept free, I’m happier still because I’ll still get what I need from UKW to assist me in my work without extra cost to me.Steve.
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ParticipantRe: Beko WMA667W
DC module is a stock item at Connect £10 + VAT. The Beko modules on the EMW site all show “no motor action” as a regular fault.
HTH,
Steve.
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ParticipantRe: hotpoint wd62
New armature from Qualtex – ARM20 @ £24 + VAT. FHP motors were fitted in the later machines, but they had a tendency to whack the side panel in the event of an off – balance load. They were often fitted with a stick on slam panel or a square of foam padding in a futile attempt to stop cabinet damage. Suspension should be tight if an FHP is used…..:wink:
Repair the GEC unit!Steve.
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ParticipantRe: Original Servis Quartz any out there
I have 2 Sapphires and 2 Quartz’s left on my patch. About a fortnight ago, I did a repair on a Sapphire for a customer in a mobile home with a postage stamp for a kitchen. The “flood” ( 😉 ) was found to be caused by a rotted pressure switch hose. Fitted new and away it went.
The last Quartz I repaired had a leaking door gasket courtesy of a rusted clamp band. The clamp is not available anymore, so I made a replacement out of a Hotpoint 18 series one I had in my workshop loft. Cut it down and remade the ends to fit. One relieved and very happy customer; she was aware that a new machine meant a new kitchen. “I’m 83 you know, I don’t want to be doing that at my age…..”!! 😀Steve.
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ParticipantRe: WTA Logo
And for me please, Ken!!
Steve.
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ParticipantRe: Business for Sale
Hi Geoff,
Hope you are keeping well! Can I have a look at that software as well, please?
Steve.
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