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eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Diplomat ADP 8221 Stopped Working
Mechanical timer on these old beasts. If you can remove the front wooden decor panel (special tool required to pull the spring loaded retainers out but I am sure you can improvise). You will see in the top rh corner of the facia panel, a hole where, if it were not a built in model, the timer knob would be. Carefully insert a screwdiver and turn it one click CLOCKWISE and the programme will continue then. If on the next wash it does the same then you have a problem and need an engineer. Sometimes these just lock up for no aparent reason for a temporary blockage that has since cleared itself.
September 19, 2007 at 8:17 am in reply to: Diplomat ADP8252 – leak from underneath, near the front #227872eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Diplomat ADP8252 – leak from underneath, near the front
Not sure they have any holes in the undertray…… unless of course a cowboy has drilled them……
Usual leaks on those are from where the Air break joins the water softner unit in the right hand side panel (when looking at the front of the dishwasher). Quite a big job to get at and not really a diy job.eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Smeg DWI 615C
Sounds like classic soap dispenser coil fault. Slave on any old solonoid valve to prove it.
eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Indesit WIA 101UK
A few of us have had a these “2 rotary knob” (indesit laughably describe these as ” EVO2 CONTROLS LOW-END 1000RPM ” meaning they think there is a high end machine out there somewhere!) type boards go lately. Rumour has it that its the tiny potentiometers that fail. Possible that EMW are repairing them so give them a ring otherwise its a new board and eeprom.
eastlmark
ModeratorRe: What do you say???
Dont sell her an ISE 10!
eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Payment card industry rules, PCI DSS
😳 😳 😳 😳 😳 😳 😳 😳 😳 😳
sorry goaty! That letter had been sitting on my desk since February and I thought I should have done something about it by now.
So the rest of you are all sorted out as well then?eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Indesit WIA121UK PCB
I guess its one of those? or maybe on the small board at right angles to the main. who knows. The 8 pin socket location for the eeprom is printed on the top of the board and marked ‘U2’
looks like we have got ourselves a new common fault here.eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Indesit WIA121UK PCB
Jim, its like the one I had the other day, same fault even. New board has a 8 pin socket for Eprom. old board has it suface mounted underneath. Got to wonder how long they will make replacement boards and eeproms, rather than blank boards that need programming on site with all the tech gizmoes they dont let us have.
eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Measuring Capacitance
I gues its a matter of time on your hands to probe into these reasons things have failed. I used to bring every module back with me to do the same but never get the chance to do anything with them. I guess when I was younger I too may have been as curious about that cap as Neptune was but these days I really couldnt give a damn.
September 11, 2007 at 10:02 pm in reply to: Sneaky blighters have changed the error lights again. #227198eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Sneaky blighters have changed the error lights again.
changed a board and eeprom on one of these today. machine locked into cycle, no error codes and unable to even re-set the programme or turn the machine off without resorting to pulling the plug. New board cured fault and much easier to change than the old ones.
eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Measuring Capacitance
neptune wrote:I know that you can buy multimeters now with a capacitance scale, but I generally prefer to buy cheap tools because i tend to loose them. I went out to an old Zanussi , It would spin with a light load, but not with a heavy load. I changed the motor capacitor, which cured the fault. I took the old cap home and decided to measure it. First I gave it the usual leakage and low- to-earth tests which it passed. Then using suitable leads, I connected it accross the mains in series with my multimeter on AC amps. The reading was 0.6 amps. [Safety, use insulated leads, set the job up and retire to a safe distance before switching on mains at socket.] Note the reading, disconnect plug from mains, and remember to discharge the cap with an insulated screwdriver before touching it. Now devide 14.4 by the current in amps in this case, 0.6 . The answer is 8.6 . so this nominally 16 mfd cap had deteriorated to 8.6 . Hope this might help somebody. Note that the plug on the test rig should have a 5 amp fuse.OBSERVE ABOVE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS, or buy a dearer multimeter.
If it cured the problem, why bother?
eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Hygena oven apl0425
Funny old things these, all the parts come seperatly so no hinge as such, usually only need the pins though, MFI extracare in Norwich is the place to go.
eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Rangemaster fan motors
cookerfit wrote:Definitely no lug on the plate on the motors we have in stock, just checked again.
Regards
CookerfitCookerfit you are missing the point, the stud is on the oven rear and seems to be a threaded stud like the ones that the fan element screw in to. This one however has no screw and seems to have no function other than maybe some kind of vent. the old motors had a hole in the mounting plate to locate this stud while the new, large bearing ones dont. every rangemaster i have ever done seems to have this stud so its amazing you have done 80 odd and not come across one!
eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Browngoods Again
Penguin45 wrote:Moderation – none of know anything about brown goods, really………..
Chris.
When it comes to fixing them I am not sure anyone knows much about brown goods these days. 😉
eastlmark
ModeratorRe: Hotpoin/Ind DW’s
maltheviking wrote:I attended one of these machines with the solid plug, customer was complaining of a leak from the front of the DW (BFI620) I run the machine and no leak 😕 ran it a second time and stopped it through the programme and had a look inside to check the water level, all ok, on closing the door water splurted out at the bottom of the door 😕 obviously the tub is now airtight which I find strange considering the crap goal post door seals that are fitted to these :rolls:. they generally don’t make contact all around the door. With the tub being airtight I presume that when the water is heated up in the DW then there must be a pressurisation, hence water being pushed out of the bottom of the door.
Anyone else come across this problem?
Can any of you current Hotpoint guys out there shed any light onto these new “solid plugs”?I think pretty much every dishwasher out there will do that to some extent if interrupted when really hot. Which is why many have a delayed circulation pump start up under those conditons.
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