eastlmark

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Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 4,480 total)
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  • in reply to: Removeal of Miele W4446 front panel #453946
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: Removeal of Miele W4446 front panel

    Twoten wrote:Thanks Dave,
    That’s perfect. I tried to google it but that didn’t come up for me.
    I thought it was a case of removing the control panel but when I removed the lid and then undone the screws on the right I assumed the whole fascia would have lifted off without removing the PCB. I didn’t think they would have designed something that had to be stripped down like that just get the front panel off when you consider how easy it is on their other washing machines.
    I suspect the filter wasn’t tightened properly on this a caused the water to run into the base so I have drained the base with a long hose and syringe, tightened the filter and run tests so I don’t think I will need to remove the front now but I wanted to be prepared in case I have to go back to it.
    Many thanks.


    Yeah, its crazy and Bosch have done the same. Those “space age” Miele’s need the top off and tilted back to get to screws under the front panel after all those years of easy access from the front.

    in reply to: Bosch Auto WAE28262 Brand New E02 Fault #453712
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: Bosch Auto WAE28262 Brand New E02 Fault

    quality Bosch appliance then. Segments lifting on a brand new one?

    in reply to: Electronic transformers on hoods #453343
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: Electronic transformers on hoods

    £1200 + hassle of fitting for a new hood then, yes, they did go ahead.

    in reply to: Electronic transformers on hoods #453341
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: Electronic transformers on hoods

    good points Dave and along the lines I was thinking. this one also had variable brightness lighting assume by lowering the voltage to the transformer from the pcb = triac control at a guess.

    Problem is with the electronic ones its difficult to tell if they have failed or not with a meter as there is no circuit when reading across the “primary”. As it happened on this one I needed to change both pcb’s in the end as the blown transformer had also taken out the main pcb. £300 bill to the customer just to get their lights working!

    in reply to: HPT W/D BHWD129 Had Module Fixed But…See Image #452948
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: HPT W/D BHWD129 Had Module Fixed But…See Image

    yep, drier ntc does exactly this. Been caught out in the past.

    in reply to: ISE drier CD60W cuts out. #453110
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: ISE drier CD60W cuts out.

    Hi Steve, I know you have obviously checked everything is clear….. sounds like the stats are just doing their job. I have had a couple of these with jammed heater relays that, once heating, have continued to heat during the cycle when the heater should be off and even at end of cycle and with the door open. The only way I found it was by using a clamp meter and kept opening the door while it was heating and on about the 5th go it stuck, overheated and the toc cut the power to the pcb hence the dead machine. Relays are replaceable with a bit of soldering knowhow. Cannot remember which one exactly it was but will be obvious when looking.

    in reply to: AGA F/freezer #452665
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: AGA F/freezer

    stratfordgirl wrote:If the engineer came from Italy, I wonder if the Aga product reaper saw was a rebadged Smeg. I saw something in the trade press recently about Smeg launching some extremely pricey high end refrigeration products, here:

    http://www.smeguk.com/smeg_com/docs/common_pdf/Smeg_Luxury_17.pdf

    Roughly £8k a piece for the freestanding models.


    Yep, was called on one of these late last year- was a complete surprise to me as I didn’t know they existed! It is basically a sub Zero and a quality lump it was too. The ice maker however was usual Korean tat and that’s what went wrong.

    in reply to: Miele G1182 D/W #452736
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: Miele G1182 D/W

    easy job John and never had a leaker. You get 2 gaskets with the heater one marginally larger diameter than the other as there are serial number differences. sometimes difficult to tell which is which such is the minute difference. The only issue to look out for is the 2 feed pipes up to the spray arms as they need to be removed to get the motor out. Before doing so, check the condition of the silicon rubber parts on the end of the plastic tubes where they connect to the motor- the part where the hose clips fit- if the are at all swollen or feel sticky to the touch beware as when removing them they will likely tear and then leak afterwards. the short one is £50 and the long narrow one is £100 so can add a lot to the cost so point this out to the customer before starting so you don’t get caught. Also try and keep the pressure switch on the motor ( you can pull the wires off to remove the motor) as the 2 ears that clip it on can also break meaning a new switch £80. Also put a towel over the heater relay as there is always a bit of water leakage from the hoses when removing them that will end up in the plugs. that’s Miele for you!

    in reply to: AGA F/freezer #452662
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: AGA F/freezer

    most of the Aga fridge freezers I have come across are Chinese tat tarted up with some fancy doors and handles. What’s more Aga/ Rangemaster wipe their hands of them the day after the warranty runs out and have very little spares

    in reply to: Qualtex Account Closure #443616
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: Qualtex Account Closure

    would have been nice to tell them where to stick it…. as it is though there are less and less alternatives.

    in reply to: bosch d/w sms40t42uk #452036
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: bosch d/w sms40t42uk

    yes, crappy plastic bases

    in reply to: ISE W256W DISPENSER #451979
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: ISE W256W DISPENSER

    yes simples.
    lid off, control panel off ( retaining clips just need tweaking from above, then prise off from the bottom edge.) no need to disconnect the wires. This exposes one screw at the front of the dispenser, the other 2 are at the top into the side panel.
    cut off the fill hose clips at the rear (remember which fill hose goes to where, there is usually one spare so don’t get confused as its a blank.) and cut off the breather clip on the grey pipe.
    Leave the dispenser closed and you can now remove it from the casing enough to cut off the dispenser hose clip. At this stage- leave the trim front on the old dispenser.
    re fit the dispenser hose first – you will need a new set of clips as you don’t get them with the dispenser. Then locate the dispenser into the front panel. there is a hook in the front which goes behind the pivot for the swing out part and a tab that locates in a slot in the dispenser at the narrow end. fit the screws and check it swings in and out without fouling. Re fit the hoses using new clips or cable ties.
    To remove the trim panel from the old one, simply prise it towards the narrow end using the blade of a small screwdriver from the inside edge. it will pop off and can be easily slid onto the new one in reverse- no glue required!.

    in reply to: AEG L75480WD #452005
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: AEG L75480WD

    check for earthed elements maybe. Need product code.

    in reply to: bosch d/w sms40t42uk #452034
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: bosch d/w sms40t42uk

    no that one has the reed switch built in to the air break. Could be lots of issues though, most likely water in base.

    in reply to: Bocsh SHV43A03GB/42 No response from rest #452008
    eastlmark
    Moderator

    Re: Bocsh SHV43A03GB/42 No response from rest

    sounds like pcb, any water in base though? Nothing earthed? Would give the pcb a good inspection though, look for blown out components otherwise a new one might blow on fitting.

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 4,480 total)