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Re: 1607w rubber lip thing around door
I think if that is the cause then its the pulling forward of the drum while removing the clothes that is pushing the seal off rather than any direct contact with the washing load itself.
Re: Rangemaster fridge freezer
well, thanks to all who responded, the diverter valve was changed and cured the problem, Thing is, the door open alarm is now going off randomly.
According to the instruction book, the door alarm does not sound for any other reason other than for the door swtiches and no error codes show on the display.
Both door switches operate the light and fans fine so dont think it is them. Is there a reed switch anywhere?
or can anyone shed any light on why the door alarm should keep going off?
anyone have a service manual or diagram?
thanks in advance once more.Re: What was the best machine ?
Martin wrote:Doubt if any of you guys were familiar with this machine but the Bosch VT570 was THE best washer dryer of any I have known. Built like a brick outhouse, easy to work on, simple in operation. Proper direct condenser drying system inside the drum (non of this fan assisted fluff chamber crap). Massive drum, bearings never failed, induction motor/clutch unit with enough torque to drive a ferris wheel. Fully removable double skinned front and side panels (outer panels white stove enamel. Inner panels sheet steel)
And because they were expensive to buy and needed lots of space only the rich and famous bought them ( from Harrods mostly). So access and getting paid to fix them never an issue but more a pleasure………..Happy days! 8)and made by AEG IIRC!
Re: What was the best machine ?
Seamy wrote:Most of the old Zanussi’s were very reliable, i’ve worked on a 30y old Zannusi Z9191T model & a 32 y’old Miele washer
1826 then is your answer? not yet known Miele brand a Hotpoint or Hoover. 😉
Re: Washer Heaters
probably depens on the design of the drum and how tight the heater has been fitted in the first place. If anyone can claim that all heaters can be refitted are obviously not very experienced ‘cos I assure you that is not the case. Some rubber seals come out in the same shape as new ones which of course is no problem, others are swollen maybe a 1/4 larger so no way would I risk even attempting to get one in for fear it might pop out again even if you managed to squeeze it back in. And then there is the stainless tubs with the flange facing outwards….. like a razor blade slicing the gasket as it goes in. All of this assuming the heater comes out in the first place of course.
No one is suggesting you cannot refit heaters, whether it is wise or profitable to do so is another matter. I would happily flaff around with fairy for half an hour if I was getting paid for it…..Re: Rangemaster 110 Clock/Timer Renewal – Eectric – 5344
by electric youmean solid plate or ceramic? either way I think you need to get to the screws at the rear.
Re: W1607w sealing ring
ise-trade-support/1607w-rubber-lip-thing-around-door-t65577.html
Re: miele heater
34 ML 01 from maddocks fit most Miele’s. Dont recognise this model number though so dont hold me to it.
remove the clips (you get new ones with the heater) the drip shield and then ease it out. The rubber seal will give way easily but the heater may be scaled in and need a good tug, mole grips on the terminals usually work.
I use a metal tube that will fit over the terminals to fit the new clips and drip cover with the aid of a hammer. Just note how far the old heater went in and that the ntc does not touch the element itself when you push it back in. clean the grey air bell next to the heater at the same time, common for them to block and cause heater problems.Re: Washer Heaters
lifes too short to mess around squeezing swolen rubber seals back into a slot way smaller. Would find a better way of getting the bra wire out. Very rarely have removed heaters for any other reason than replacing them, tub changes being the exception then I would always quote for new heater in the price, (drum probably have scored it anway) and with any luck this extra cost will tip the balance cost wise and persuade the customer to scrap it.
Re: Bendix 7147
dumped loads over the years…good old Philco machine though. have to ask…….why?
most suffered rusted tubs/leaks into motors. Unlikely to find one in good condition.
Re: Found this amusing..
Micky 32 wrote:I was recently over in the states. I went into an appliance store to see what sort of appliances they sell over there. I actually came across some Bosch front loaders like here. i noticed 3 differences with them. Where the spin speed adjustment is instead of 400, 800 , 1200 etc it had slow spin, medium spin and high spin etc. Also there were no temp settings or no FD numbers..
On chatting with the sales guy about this, the reason is that if the machine said 1200 spin he claims someone without doubt will actually measure the rpm and if it was only say 1180rpm and not the full 1200 they might sue
. Also the same goes for the water temp, if it’s not 40 degrees and only say 37 they might sue also LOL…I’m guessing the lack of a FD number maybe because if someone bought a machine and seen that it was in the shop 6 months or so they maybe a law suit over that too 😆Not that I am doubting your source, but I reckon the reason for this in that Americans only really understand cold, warm and hot from years of their top loaders only stating that. Pretty sure the average american has no idea of what the actual temperatures are as they are normally related to how hot their hot water system is. Would think if these are cold fill machines they will have trouble shifting them.
Ditto with the spin speed, they are used to slow, very slow and super slow!Re: oven hob tripping
Seamy wrote:Post the model number of oven, hob & someone may have come across what to look for on the specific appliances. Would’ve thought they should’nt be wired to plugs but on a 32A supply with double pole isolation, but again this is dependant on the type of appliances & what the installation instructions say.
to be fair, he does suggest only the oven is plug wired. cannot help on the problem though. as a wildcard though I have had a few instances of the hob cable being trapped by the back of the oven and over the years has rubbed through the insulation causing a short often when the oven is turned on due the the slight movement of he oven when this is done.
If its going of with a bang then surely there must be some evidence either visibly or when items are meggered.Re: FD no.
stratfordgirl wrote:Are we talking BSH? If so, FD 9007 is July 2010. July 2000 would be FD 8007.
this is the correct reply.Re: Beko Sealed Tanks?
I wont get into a “I am faster than you” type rant but when taking into account other jobs I could be doing while flaffing around trying to fit an old heater into a new tub or straining to lift a tub out without damage to either me, the appliance or its surroundings its not profitable, full stop. A complete welded tub for a Hotpoint is less than £20 more than your rear tub and spider and I sure know what I would rather be fitting.
Of course, I would much prefer stainless tub and cast spider with decent front and rear access.
