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well, its not sensing pressure switch
u could try one, but its usually the pcb
i pressume youve checked the pump/pressure hose?
comet charge £30 for callout and initial consultation
then a further £45 plus parts if any work is carried out
so if ur machines b.e.r just £30
which happens a lot
Re: NEFF U1721 oven element
queeg wrote:SteveBC,
Have stripped down the oven in readiness for new element –
taken off the panel covering the fan and the fan (which was non too easy)
The spindle nut came off ok – then the tab washer prized off with a small screwdriver.
To get the fan off the shaft I sprayed a little WD40 and left for 1/2 hour. Then put small adjustable spanner on the flatted end of the shaft and turned the fan backwards and forwards at the same time as easing it forwards. Eventually it came off.
Oh – remember to isolate the leccy before pulling out the old element from its mounting otherwise sparks could ensue 😳
will let you know if it all works when the new element arrives (from here… http://www.espares.co.uk/part/cookers-a … ement.html )
why on earth would you take the fan off to change the elementAND… you then post a duff link for him to buy a part elsewhere
beggars belief, it really does.. do you think this site is cost free to run? ok, so we engineers help you out, but sometimes it would be nice if just for once, you put a little bit back in to pay for the upkeep of this site
i just cant believe it
id be checking the defrost element and cut out first
i have had the pcb cause that, but ive also seen the cut out do that
the fans supposed to stop when you open the door
and the fast freeze overrides all controls
timers going off doesnt confirm the timer as faulty.. its common now for manufacturers to use thermal fuses/overloads or in line fuses to protect such expensive items
you might be pleasantly surprised if you click the link to find an engineer in your area
hope this helps
sorry, but am i missing something here?
i clicked on that link, cos im a curious kinda guy , and clearly on the picture on argos, the iron has a cable?will someone explain how thats cordless for me?
ok, here goes
have you cleaned the condenser?
secondly.. the pump on those machines have a toc fitted to the coil which goes open circuit quite quickly when they run without water
however, it does tend to come back on when it cools
i’d be cleaning the condenser and changing the pump base for a good quality non genuine replacement
and id check the toc in the hose from the condenser to the tub, if there is onehope this helps?
what you really need to do is disconnect the 2 heaters
if you test them together, and one is faulty (open circuit) it will show, regardless of which one
youll probably find the defrost heater is the culprit, as per my original post
order the evaporator, and change the heater , sensor, and thermal fuse , because theye updated the sensor, and its best to renew everything
Re: samsung machine e3 error code
lerch wrote:Check the hose where it connects to pressure switch as it always gets a hole there. 🙂
did i not say that
?it will be the condeser blocked
youll have to take it off, its not something we can go into greatly
but its the plastic tube attatched to the fan, and the rear of the tub, it needs cleaning out
wear protective gloves too, theres some nasty sharp edges in there.
is the duct metal or plastic? if its a metal duct, theres a nasty conversion to be done, which isnt cheap
hope this helps
youll be lucky if that spider comes of the shaft
with the plug out, and good, protective gloves on, remove the pulley bolt,then the pulley
on each of the 4 arms, theres 2 tx40 bolts which need to be removed.. the spider SHOuld come off the shaftexpect it to be tight, and expect problems, its a tough job
im not sure if anyone supplies just the bearings, i only fit them complete with the spider
