Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: AEG L14800 washer drier dead.
More likely to be a dodgy switch mode PSU chip on the main PCB.
Jem
Re: Hoover HNL2126S-80 – Spider Change
Seeing that they sell the spider as a separate unit there must be an approved way of fixing it?
I am already guessing that the ordinary nuts and bolts in a hardware store won’t cope with the detergent and water mix so what type are used for fixing things like the Hotpoint spiders?
Jem
Re: bosch WTE84107GB/02 dryer
Have a good look at all the solder joints on the board otherwise it may be the switch mode chip causing it.
Jem
Re: Removing torx screws from drum spider – Hotpoint
I also use a battery drill – 18V Bosch with8mm Dewalt Bit.
Jem
Re: Removing torx screws from drum spider – Hotpoint
I use the cobalt ones as well – these are the ones that I use – just add some cutting compound and they eat the bolts for breakfast, so far I have not damaged a single drum with them as they take the bolt head off first.
Jem
Re: Aeg oven top oven dead
Looking at the diagram I would suggest that you check the continuity of the white wire from the main terminal pin 4 to 11a of the top oven selector switch.
Jem
Re: neff h5430nogb/02 microwave tripping rcd
If it is tripping an RCD then the inverter or wiring to it must be duff as the transformer on the inverter electrically isolates the high voltage side of the magnetron making it impossible for the high voltage section to trip the RCD without the transformer being duff (or some form of short between low and high voltage sides).
If it is tripping an MCB then I would be checking if the the 3 large black components have gone short circuit in which case I would guess that at least some of the magneton’s vacuum has gone allowing it to arc killing the inverter in which case you need to replace both.
The fact that the fuse has blown suggests to me that the inverter has got shorted components on the heat sink and that the magnetron is drawing to much current so I would change both.
Jem
Re: Tecnik Dual Fuel Range Cooker
I have just had the pleasure of seeing one of these this morning for a different fault (small oven grill element) but I took a look while I was there and the procedure appears to be this:
1.Remove the six screws that hold the outer back cover on the appliance and then remove the cover.
2. Disconnect any wires etc so that you can remove the big pad of insulation to fully expose the inner silver panel (with fan and element mounted on it).
3. Remove the four screws inside the oven that hold the inner silver back panel on.
4. The silver panel appears to be stuck in position using some form of sealant so it will need carefully prising off.
5. Remove old element.
6. IMPORTANT – the screws that hold the element are NOT self tappers so run a tap through the holes in the new element (Guess who has just found out the hard way 😳 )
7. Reassemble in reverse order and test.
Hope that helps
Jem
P.S. The model number that I was given if it helps is TKC1285
Re: Whirlpool TD AWZ7814AL flashing lights.
I don’t know the machine but if all the lights are flashing then it would suggest to me that the power supply on the board is playing up.
Jem
Re: Whirpool made oven Model APSSO/1/BR
PM me with an email address and I will send the diagram through (only got the diagram for the 854141015041 version but doubt that there is much difference).
Jem
Re: water level switch
I would still be looking at the pressure chamber as it may be a bit of plastic or a coin or some other foreign object acting as a flap valve.
Jem
