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nomadPaul
ParticipantThe relay will be a small component on top of the motor itself . It sits where all the wires go into the motor.
The start capacitor may look ok but that doesn’t mean its working.
When the machine is started , and once it has filled up with water , is there a faint hum/buzzing noise coming from the motor ?
nomadPaul
ParticipantIt sounds like the wash motor isn’t firing up or is seized. There are a number of possible causes.
1. Motor bearings seized
2.Motor impellor blade seized or blocked by foreign object
3.Start capacitor faulty
4.Start relay assy faulty.POWER OFF THE APPLIANCE – remove the right hand side panel and you will see the motor in the bottom left corner. . If you look into the end of the motor you will see some fins. See if you can turn these fairly easily.
If you can’t tun the motor/fins then it’ll be options 1 or 2.
If you can turn the motor ok , then it’ll probably be options 3 or 4.nomadPaul
ParticipantNot all models have the water point system. This model doesn’t have it as it’s one of the early machines using the base IWH so you get feed to both spray arms at the same time.
Some models do have a ‘top basket only’ wash cycle though but it uses a different sytem which i’ve never actually seen.nomadPaul
ParticipantIs it getting hot but not drying ? I’d be looking at clearing out the condensor box , looking for a blockage wher it connects to the drum .
nomadPaul
ParticipantBosch Siemens too !!! In fact , i’m on a training course wednesday for this very product
nomadPaul
ParticipantMake sure the oven door is closing properly and that the hinges aren’t faulty. Is there any movement of the door when its in it’s closed position ?
nomadPaul
ParticipantIf you’ve taken the access cover off the pump , don’t forget it needs to go back on for it to drain properly !
nomadPaul
ParticipantWhat happens when you reset it ? Does the pump run or just buzz ? If it runs but doesn’t drain , its a blockage somewhere. If it just buzzes and doesn’t spin then the chances are the drainpump is faulty.
Have you checked the drain hose connection spigot….especially if its connected directly to your sink outlet ?
nomadPaul
ParticipantIts not only the water valve that you can hear ‘pulsing’ …it’s the pump too.
Follow Bob’s advice and you won’t be far off. Pressure chamber and hose between chamber and sump will be crudded up.
…and yes , if the pressure chamber is blocked the water can ‘back-up’ and it can trick the machine into thinking its already full of water when there isn’t any in there.
February 3, 2010 at 12:29 pm in reply to: Bosch SGS45E08GB not switching off at end of cycle #310566nomadPaul
ParticipantThe most common cause of the cycle going beyond its allocated time is low water levels causing a no-heat fault.
Does it make any ‘knocking/klerdunking’ noise on initial fill ? When its up and running , how much water is there in the bottom of the tub ? It should just about cover the whole of the base and reach the bottom edge of the salt pot lid.
If it’s not heating or the water level is too low , search for ‘Bosch+not heating’ using the search facility as there is plenty of good info and advice on other threads .
Hope this helps
February 2, 2010 at 10:52 pm in reply to: Bosch SGS45E08GB not switching off at end of cycle #310563nomadPaul
Participant…and those models were all manafactured in the US
nomadPaul
ParticipantThe part number for the pressure chamber should be 497570 – That’s if the ENr number you’ve posted is wrong and i’m presuming it is SGV57T03GB/08. I believe that they can be dismantled and cleaned out. In my position though , i tend to replace them as it’s mainly under warranty/insurance jobs.
nomadPaul
ParticipantRe: WAE28363gb/05 Bosch
neilsukwg wrote:Thanks for advice
Twas indeed child lock set! Doh! 😳
Any time you see a key symbol on a Bosch Siemens Neff appliance Neil , its always the first thing to check ! They tend to only show on the display if the child lock is in operation.
Glad you sorted it .
nomadPaul
ParticipantIt’ll prob be the pressure chamber mate. You may find it all gunged up and backing up into the pressure switch itself causing the machine to think it’s full when it isn’t.
Best way to check is to watch it fill with the left hand side panel off. The heat exchanger should fill completely then totally empty via the pressure chamber. Watch to see if you get ‘backing up’ in the pressure chamber.
nomadPaul
Participanttbh John , it sounds like its leaking into the base and operating the flood protection system .
Wasv there any traces of water once you took the metal baseplate off ? First thing i’d check is the securing nut on the salt pot where it meets the tub. Take off the salt pot lid and see if the securing nut is loose . I have had a couple where this is loose and water is leaking into the base by the salt pot lid.
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