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sounds like a classic ‘impellor jug’ fault.
Its the flow rate meter – part number 424099.
It will cause the machine to fill/drain/fill/drain at cycle start and the ‘check water’ light to illuminate (The tap symbol)
Basically , the impellor jug isn’t sending the correct signal to the control module so the appliance has no idea what rate the water is incoming…..this causes overfilling – hence the drain out portion – as it can’t sort its water level out.
Re: Creda Fridge Explosion!
roly16 wrote:Am I missing something here? Where’s the beginning of this story?
here you go fella
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1207363/Mother-lucky-alive-fridge-mysteriously-exploded-turning-house-bomb-site.htmlMerv , a faulty actuator can cause massive probs blowing tracks/relays on the main board. I’ve had it where the burnt out area has caused the display module to burn out as well !!! Very expensive repair !
You’re correct in thinking its the impellor.
A faulty impellor jug willl give a continuous fill/empty/fill/empty cycle with the check water light illuminated , just as you described.Part number is 424099 and is obtainable from BSH appliance care on 0844 892 8921
EDIT : On a drain cycle , once you’ve reset it , it won’t pump continuously but will drain/pause/drain/pause about 4 times before going into a continual drain
You could check the heater element going down to earth . Also , if i remember correctly , the NTC fitted with the heater , if faulty , can cause this spurious prob too.
Does it occur approx 7 – 10 mins into the wash ? If it does , then 9 times out of 10 it’ll be the heating element .
to set the language –
keep memory button ‘M’ pressed for 4 seconds
pressing the arrow button will take it down to the 2nd line
set ‘English’ required using the function selector
press the memory button ‘M’
it should now be set to English
Can you see an FD number on the door etching . This would give us the manafactured date. It would poss be something lik 81xx .
There are normally 3 reasons for non-heating –
1) Lack of water in appliance – Low water levels will stop appliance from heating as heater pressure switch needs a certain amount of water before it will allow heater to operate.
2) Burnt out contact on heater relay on main control board –
3) Open circuit water heater – normal resistance is approx 29 – 35 ohms
I’ve listed these faults in order of probability
1) You will need to check the pressure chamber and ribbed hose , located on the bottom left hand side for blockages . If you get a ‘kerdonk kerdonk’ noise on fill or there’s no water covering the base once the machine is up and running , then this is the probable cause. Cleaning out these two places could cure it.
2) You will need to remove the module and examine the circuit board – the burnt out joint will be quite obvious . If this is the fault , either a new board is required OR some independent engineers will attempt a soldered repair.
3) Open circuit heater is most definitely the worst scenario of the 3 and is a nasty job even for experienced engineers –
If its 1 or 2 , then it may be worth a go but if its 3 then you’d be better getting someone in or replacing the whole machine
POWER OFF AND PLUG OUT IF INVESTIGATING
This model has a starter relay on the motor – part no: 187156 £9 odd from BSH – You may find the relay is burnt out and smells of melted plastic
The anti-flood switch may be ok but make sure that the base panerl underneath the anti-flood float hasn’t ‘buckled’ up . I’ve had a couple where the base pan has pinged upwards operating the anti-flood float switch even when there’s no water in the base .
The backwards g is an ‘e’….for error normally .
….and the main culprit is the left hand side pc board – part no: 666080 £122.47 from BSH – going pear shaped !!!!
Check for ventilation clearance at the front of the hob where the fan vents are and fan operation itself if you replace the board to prevent possible future failures .
It will prob be the foamed in NTC failing – there is a mod where you by-pass the faulty NTC .
There are a good few posts on here about it . HAve a search around.
If i can find it , i’ll put the link up !
There is a kit available from Bosch – part no 491416 – with a diagram and connectors in it but as i said , you may find the info you need somewhere in these pages
Its a rarity that i have to do this but if they’re all rusted in , and especially if they’re rounding off , i’ll pull the oven out , rear panel off and then give them a rap from the back to loosen them up.
Soemtimes , if you can get a couple out , you can wiggle the back plate to break the rust and free them up.
Could be one of the solenoids has gone . One solenoid is used for the main wash and rinse – the other one is used for pre-wash and rinse .
With the rinse cycle , both valves are operated so if its the prewash valve thats gone , the appliance will still fill ok albeit with no water coming from the conditioer holes .
When you first switch the machine on , do you get a short burst of water coming out of the right hand side ?
