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Is the noise more noticeable on the start of a spin i.e at slower spin speeds ?
It could be the springs need regreasing where they hang on the cabinet . Sometimes the grease at the top of the spring where it hooks in can wear away and the spring ‘jumps’ in the groove at slower spin speeds and the metal against metal can cause a sort of ‘be-doing’ noise ( sorry , thats the best way to explain it 🙂 )
What happens when you start the cycle ? If it doesn’t fill , does the drum start turning straight away or does it just sit there doing nothing ?
Is the drum suspended on a crossways tie bar or are the springs hooked into the topside of the cabinet ? ( just come back from a few days away and can’t be ar*ed to fire up my laptop yet 🙂 )
Most of the knocking noises i’ve had on these machines has been caused by the springs jumping in a groove thats produced over time. The noise is more predominant at slow speeds and will disappear as the spin speed increases.
On the tie-bar set up , i normally lever up the spring where it hooks into the tie bar , clean and re-lubricate well before lowering the spring/tub .
On the springs that hang on the side of the cabinet , there are two plastic bushings available that hook under the spring ends to provide a smooth suspension point.
You can normally tell if this is the fault by removing the lid , and pressing down on either side of the tub , by the springs , and you may hear it go ‘bedoing’ !!!
Start a new cycle and let it run for approx 5 mins….then open the door and check the water level in the bottom of the tub. Does it reach the salt pot lid and just about cover the whole base ?
Also listen as it initially fills…does it go clonk clonk clonk on the fill ?
It sounds like a possible low water level problem , which isn’t too bad to remedy. HOWEVER , if its the diverter motor for the spray arms faulty then its a major fix .
Could you also post up the full model number…it should be etched onto the top of the nner door and will be labelled as Enr – S…………
With any fridge freezer , whether it be a frost-free or standard , i would always advise a power off 48hr defrost to get the appliance back to a level playing field , free of ice .
If after switching back on , and given a reasonable freezing down time , the fault persists after this defrost then you can generally assume there is a fault of some kind.
Does it fill/drain/fill/drain continuously when started ? The water level float switch may be gunged up and stuck , therefore not lifting as the water level rises . If the appliance doesn’t see this rise , it will continue filling until it reaches a ‘flood’ level’ ( operated by the mushroom float on the loor of the tub ) which then operates the drain pump until the level drops where it will then continue filling.
The level float is situated at approx the 5 o’clock position in sump. Remove the filters and locate the little cover in the 5 o’clock spot . Lift this little covr up and the float is in a small vertical channel beneath it. Lift out the float – MAKING A NOTE OF ITS ORIENTATION – I.E GREY SIDE UP – and give it and the channel it runs up and down in a very good clean….i normally use very hot water…and then re-assemble , making sure the float is the right way up and runs smoothly in its channel.
This could solve your problem.
Re: siemens dw
electrofix wrote:thought
the hinges have not been strained causing door to pop open ?
Dave
Thats a good thought Dave . However , its nearly never the actual hinges that fail but the door inner that gets bent and stops the door from closing properly. The door inner distorts right by the hinge securing screws causing the door to ‘twist’ .
You will need to check the heater for resistance to see what the reading is . A simple multimeter will do the job – if its open circuit then theres your fault – POWER OFF IF YOU’RE GOING TO CHECK
With such a long hose laying flat as well , there could be future probs with the hose blocking with food/fat deposits .
Check the top basket and make sure they haven’t clipped any cutlery racks into the wrong position – i.e too far forward – causing the door to not be able to close properly.
Does it do the same thing with all the baskets removed ?
Without seeing it , the PCB is probably the cause. You can sometimes see burnt out tracks and /or relays on the module if stripped down .
Re: Neff S 5453x1gb Dish washer
keithwilliams wrote:yes this is becoming a common fault so i carry one as a spare. nice easy job.
Biggest prob is getting the hoses off the impellor as they can be quite a tight fit !! 😀
These normaly just ‘clip’ into the top section so you should be able to carefully pull the panel ( or lever it ) forward from the top once you’ve removed the bottom 2 screws . Don’t think there’s any hidden screws anywhere else .
