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Probably the water diverter motor gone on the heater box which may have taken out the triac on the module too.
The switch between top and bottom arms should occur approx every 60secs once the machine is fully up and running.
Check the triacs on the main board. If you find the top or corner blown off one of them then both heater box and module will need replacing ….not the cheapest of repairs !!! 🙁
It is possible to ‘bend’ out the center section of these dispenser tops to allow proper access to the shallow channel above the holes.
in fact , i often break the flap off , clean the holes out , run a bottle brush into the dspenser top where the center piece was and then the flap will clip back in !!! If its the 4 square hole top , whilst the flap is out i’ll clip out the crosspiece to make it one big square hole. This allows easier cleaning and less chance of the bacteria taking hold .
Alternatively , Next time you have change a dispenser top , keep the old one and you can then clean this one out and use it as a new one next time….keeping that one to be cleaned…..repeat as required 🙂
No , they will run to end but the length of wash is extended by about 105mins .The timer will count down as normal until it reaches 1 min and may stay there till the end.
If the appliance number starts with a V then the model is a Smeg machine , as Martin suggested –
E06 , in my experience , has normally been caused by a blockage at the drum end of the pressure switch hose……and it can be very difficult to get to. I have succeeded clearing this prob in the past by forcing hot water down the pressure hose from the top.
The machine may need some decent service washes/descaling after to help re-occurence of the fault .Yes mate , the mushroom is just an overfill device that operates a microswitch to activate the pump should said overfill occur .
The fill on these is part timed , part controlled by the small level float . I usually remove the cover and filter to expose the sump , remove the small float cover , lift out the small float itself and then clean the channel that it runs up and down in , normally with some really hot water . The float will be half grey/half clear and the grey side should be uppermost
This machine has a level float in the sump at about the 5 o’clock position as you look down into the sump after the cover/filter has been removed . you’ll see a small grey cover . Lift this and the float is under it. Check to make sure this isn’t all crudded up and sticking . I’ve had quite a few where the float has ‘stuck’ in the down position because of grease build- up ……and make a note of which way up it is as it has to go back in the same way
Re: siemens
Martin wrote:Probably the ‘impellor jug’ flowmeter ( Pt No: 424099) playing up?
Whoops….Hi Paul :waving:
copycat lol 😆 😆 😆
99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure it’ll be the flow rate meter (impellor jug) , sited inline with the inlet hose and water inlet matrix.
Part no : 424099
Firstly , i think that model number’s not quite righty.
If its working with the door open , the first things i would do is check that :
A. theres no water in the base
B. That the pressure chamber on the left hand side of the machine ad the ribbed hose leading from it to the sump are both clear and not blocked
If it doesn’t fill correctly , i’d be checking the pressure chamber on the lower rear edge of the tub. If this gets clogged up , you will get water level probs and the machine will say its still got water in it even if empty after a drain
Is that model number correct ? Don’t seem to have any info on it .
Normally F04/E04 faults are draining related so maybe the pressure chambers crudded up ot their drain hose connection is blocked ?I can’t vouch for pattern parts but if you search the shop@ section of this site or drop the lads there an e-mail , they may have an alternative.
I have a sneaky suspicion that its this one
Re: Bosch SGV57T03GB wash times extend to 144min
judgej wrote:Hi Lee,
Looking at the way it works, I think the water level sensor is the most important thing to clean. Pipes will work, even when constricted, but a sticky or incorrectly-sensing sensor will not.
— JasonJason , you’ve put a lot of good info here but i just want to point out one thing for your own knowledge more than anything.
The ribbed hose between the level sensor and main sump is one hose that WILL most definitely cause problems with your dishwasher , even if it’s only constricted rather than fully blocked…and here’s the reason why :-
For your machine to heat correctly , there are a number of factors that must be met. One of these is suffecient water levels to make the pressure switch in the heater box operate. This ensures the machine’s heater doesn’t operate ‘dry’ thus risking major problems.
Now , if the ribbed hose is constricted , the incoming water flowing through it will ‘back-up’ into the pressure chamber thuslifting the red float. This is turn will operate the drain pump as the machine see’s it as an overfill so it pumps out a little water. As the incoming water starts flowing through the ribbed hose again , the level in the red float chamber drops and the drain pump shuts off . this cycle will continue throughout the fill period and will normally show itself by a constant ‘kerdonk kerdonk’ noise during this time.The fill matrix has a set volume of water that it dumps in the machine. These constant ‘mini-drains’ during fill will drop that water level down to such a point that there’s not enough water in the machine for the heater to operate safely….hence extended wash times and no hot water. The same thing occurs if the pressure chamber gets crudded up and the water ‘back’s up again causing operation of the red safety float.
Hope this explains the importance of cleaning the ribbed hose out .
😀
Jason , next time you need to remove the matrix , let the machine start its cycle and fill completely……this will cause the water matrix to empty ,then hey presto ! no water in the matrix . You can then re-set the machine and it will drain the sump water.
Actually , there will be a little water in the matrix but nothing major….and if you get water in the base , ensure the machine is unplugged and tilt it forward. Most of the water would run out of a hole under the front of the base
