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The thermocouple you refer to is an NTC ( Negative Temp coeffecient ) and is the temperature detection system . They very rarely go wrong. The open circuit heater element is quite common though.
The NTC should read approx 10k ohms @ 10*c down to approx 1k ohm @ 65*c
For a rough guide….and these are genuine Bosch prices about £57 for the heater , 8 or 9 notes for the NTC ( which is always worth replacing if you fit a new heater element ) and the module is approx £130.If it occurs again , make sure you check your mains socket that the appliance is plugged in to i.e plug a table lamp into the socket to ensure the socket hasn’t cut out.
There is a logical reason for this – If there is a loose wire in the socket , it may be disconnecting after some time as having a high current through it causes it to heat up and possibly move away from its contact. The power comes on as the wiring cools down.Sorry if you’ve checked this already but i always check the easiest solution 1st 🙂
Does the manual have a silver sticker on it somewhere with the full Enr nunber ? You will need the full number to find the hob top you require…also make a note of the FD number if you can find it and post it up here . We can then tell you how old it is .
It actually sounds like you may have a heater fault . The appliance will run for approx another 105mins extra , on top of the normal cycle times , if the heater is open circuit and therefore not heating the water.
The heater is situated on the front lower edge o the drum amd when checked for resistance should read approx 27 – 33 ohms .
POWER OFF IF INVESTIGATING
tbh , 142 minutes ( 2hr 22 mins ) is probably about right for an ECO programm on one of these. Just remind the customer that the time is only an estimate and can vary greatly as the wash progresses .
No , the only thing that holds it on the shaft is the nut and washer. There is a build up of grease/oxidisation on the shaft/fan blade that causes it to ‘stick’ – Once you have removed the fan blade , make sure you clean both the shaft and theinside of the fan blade hole to help with its refitting…….and don’t be tempted to leave that single hidden screw out if you’re thinking of making it easier next time ( !!! ) The element bends during use and will catch the blade making a lovely drilling noise 🙂
I’m guessing we’re talking about the half-moon element ?
There are a couple of ways but the easiest – albeit smelliest – is to spray WD40 onto the shaft where the fan blade sits . Leave for 15mins or so to llow the WD40 to do it work and then grip the shaft with some plumbers pliers and turn the fan blade…..it may take one or more squirts of WD but it should eventually prise off.
Word of warning !!! Try not to wiggle the shaft too much as they can bend and you will end up with a noisy fan .
Power off if attempting repair , make sure the oven is well ventilated and if you do get the repair done , burn off the oven for at least 30mins after because as the WD 40 burns off , it will stink !
Thats a washing machine !!! F21 normally refers to a motor fault on this model but its usually an electrical ‘spike’ that causes the board to go a bit hazy and not the motor.
Putting it into test mode and then coming out of it can cure it sometimes
OK , first things first – The reason the voltage drops off after 1 minute when drain is selcted is because thats how long the drain cycle is……when the appliance is empty. It will vary if the appliance has water in it but once the machine detects is empty , it runs on for approx 60secs and then stops .
Before you go and buy a new machine , have you checked all the hoses and drain connections to make sure that there’s no blockage anywhere ?
The noise , without actually hearing it , could just be an aging pump that you’re now paying more attention to as you have a problem.
In 8 out of 10 circumstances of machines i visit , its a blockage somewhere thats causing the problem
Re: New way to replace Bosch brushes.
Phidom wrote:Will have to try the ratchet spanner. The 1/4″ drive socket and ratchet handle are tight against the cabinet back by the time the 2″ long screws are out.
If the machine is tilted fwd , the drum pushes fwd as well and that should give enough room for the ratchet and socket even once the screws are out……although i guess it depends on the size of the ratchet itself 😕
I have had a prob where the pressure switch ‘sump’ had blocked but this caused the appliance to overfill rather than run empty ….maybe your machine problem has the opposite symptons ?
This is a tabletop dishwasher…sounds like its the pump running due to water in base operating the flood protection system maybe ? Thats where i’d start mate .
Oliver , please don’t use sweeping statements stating that no new machine will rinse as well as your old Bosch. A lot of new appliances have ‘rinse plus’ buttons which help with the rinse cycle should a customer be having unsatisfactory results.
Probable cause is a failure of the heater element . This will normally extend the wash cycle by approx 105mins which would match up with your timings. You will need to check the heater for resistance on a multimeter and should get a reading of approx 27 – 36 ohms . If its open circuit then thats the probable cause .
POWER OFF IF INVESTIGATING
yes , that is the ENr number . OK , 1st things 1st . On the front of the appliance , there should be a ‘reset’ sign under the buttons . With the machine switched on and door closed , press the two buttons indicated by the reset sign….your appliance should switch to ‘end’ or ‘0’ minutes left dependant on model. Give it a couple of seconds and the pump should fire up ….you should hear it running , attempting to pump out.
There are now 2 things to check.
1. If you can’t hear the pump fire up then this would normally indicate a pump blockage. Remove as much water as possible from the appliance and in the bottom of the sump , after the filters have been removed , you will see a single screw holding a white plate . Remove this screw (Torx 20) and the white cover. This will give you access to the pump impellor allowing you to check for a foreign object. IMPORTANT POINT – Make sure you replace the cover and screw before testing as the pump won’t work without these in place.
2. If you can hear the pump running but its not draining then this would indicate a blockage in a hose/connection. Check your drain hose , especially if its connected directly to your sink waste .
Hope this helps
PLEASE UNPLUG APPLIANCE IF YOU INTEND TO CHECK PUMP
