Flyman

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Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 246 total)
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  • in reply to: AEG SANTO F/Freezer #249509
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: AEG SANTO F/Freezer

    Yes the sensors do normally cause problems. 😉

    in reply to: candy cond t/drier, not starting. CDE105 80 #249130
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: candy cond t/drier, not starting. CDE105 80

    Hello Terry. Thermal fuse is mounted inside the element at one side.

    in reply to: Zanussi WJS 1665W Washer Dryer #249078
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: Zanussi WJS 1665W Washer Dryer

    Have you gone into the diagnostic system? The only fault codes shown to the customer are ones they can do something about. ie. no fill, no drain.

    in reply to: Zanussi E33 fault #249091
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: Zanussi E33 fault

    Small pressure switch is an electonic pressure sensor and will not click when you blow into it. An earth fault on the wash element can give you an E33 fault. (Don’t ask why cause I don’t know.) Also a blockage in the air chamber.

    in reply to: Servis M3008W-DOOR SEALED BUT STILL LEAKING? #249102
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: INDESIT M3008W-DOOR SEALED BUT STILL LEAKING?

    IIRC the hose from the dispenser to the tub attaches to the tub just to the left of the doorseal at about the 10 o’clock position. Is this attached correctly and sealed to the tub?

    in reply to: Servis M3008W-DOOR SEALED BUT STILL LEAKING? #249098
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: INDESIT M3008W-DOOR SEALED BUT STILL LEAKING?

    Does it leak as soon as it starts to fill or is it only when the water level rises above the door seal? Try letting it fill to just below the bottom of the seal then stop the machine. Has it started to leak?

    in reply to: Indesit WIDL 126 Washer / Dryer #246235
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: Indesit WIDL 126 Washer / Dryer

    Thermal fuses do go for no reason but normally you should check the condensor box and fluff filter for blockages.

    in reply to: Servis M3008W-DOOR SEALED BUT STILL LEAKING? #249096
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: INDESIT M3008W-DOOR SEALED BUT STILL LEAKING?

    If the leak is exactly the same as before are you sure it was the seal leaking in the first place? Door seals should definitely not need any sealent when fitting.

    in reply to: Servis M3008W-DOOR SEALED BUT STILL LEAKING? #249094
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: INDESIT M3008W-DOOR SEALED BUT STILL LEAKING?

    Do you have an Indesit or a Servis? M3008W is a Servis model number. 😕

    in reply to: AEG L76689 Update #247987
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: AEG L76689 Update

    Check the element for an earth fault. This will give you an E34 😕
    If that is ok then it is normally the electronic pressure sensor not the pcb. Unfortunately no simple way of testing them.

    in reply to: Zan DW ZSF6150S…+ TDS Disc #247855
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: Zan DW ZSF6150S…+ TDS Disc

    Fault code is indicated by a sequence of flashes of the End of Cycle light. It is not by the display lights. Count the number of flashes.
    1=time out fill
    2=time out drain
    3=anti flood
    5=motor triac short circuit
    6=overheating or heating time out
    7=ntc ope or short circuit
    8=communication error
    9=software problem
    11=turbidity sensor
    13=no signal from tacho
    15=water replenishment problem.

    in reply to: indesit de73 shows AO2 #247601
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: indesit de73 shows AO2

    IIRC had this before where the customer used to put a large pan in the dishwasher which blocked the water spray to the area of the temperature sensor. This gave an incorrect reading. Very intermittent fault but stopped when she stopped putting the pan in that position. :rolls:

    in reply to: Zanussi Oven #246758
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: Zanussi Oven

    This is it.
    http://www.serviceforce.co.uk/pdfs/U01261.pdf

    in reply to: zanussi wjs1265w dryer fault E10 #241246
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: zanussi wjs1265w dryer fault E10

    Sequence for this should be door locks, condensor valve operates and drum tumbles. When the electronic pressure switch senses the water level rise it will then bring on the drain pump and one of the dryer elements (lower one if I remember correctly). When the temperature in the dryer duct reaches a certain point the dryer fan switches on. Are you actually getting water through the condensor valve into the duct? Is the pump coming on straight away? Are you getting power to the lower dryer element? ❓

    in reply to: Samsung RS21DCNS #239851
    Flyman
    Participant

    Re: Samsung RS21DCNS

    Air sensors tend not to give any problems. Defrost sensors give lots of problems due to water ingress. Samsung have modified them.
    No gas valve fitted. The gas runs through fridge evap first then to freezer evap so short of gas or weak compressor may give you the indication you saw with light frost at the top of the freezer. However if it then went to -20 this seems unlikely.
    As robinsonrobbo says the normal problem with these is the defrost on the fridge side and the first thing the customer complains of is either the water dispenser not working (if fitted) or the freezer temperature keeps rising. When it goes onto a defrost (the timing of 24 hours after they switched it off sounds right) the compressor and fans switch off and the elements on both sides come on. Once the defrost sensor on freezer side reaches temperature it will switch off the element on that side. The same with the fridge side. Once both sensors have reached temperature the system will switch back on. Now if the fridge thermal fuse or element are faulty you have the situation where the freezer element has been on and defrosted the evaporator but the system will not switch back on as it is waiting for the fridge to defrost. It will then rely on the ambient room temperature to bring the fridge defrost sensor to temperature which could be hours. Hence the freezer defrosts.
    Hope that makes sense 😕

Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 246 total)