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Be very careful when opening the door and pulling the bottom tray out when its fully loaded…..it may very well tip forward as they’re designed to be held in place in a cupboard. A lot of stand-alone machines have a weight on the top to counterbalance this
The two problems that can be caused by hot water connection that i know of are…..
1. Poor drying results if there is a heat exchanger involved
2. Poor cleaning on certain proteins which respond better to cold water pre-rinse….i think !!! ( egg is one that springs to mind )…although i may be corrected on this onei can’t find that model number Kevin . The turntable faut i’ve had on a microwave , inverter style , and it was one of the door switches . Might be worth checking them.
These normally have 2 fuses – have you checked both ?
E14 is not a drain error – its to do with the flow of water coming into the appliance.
basically , the machine knows its got water in it but it isn’t detecting any water coming in i.e the flow rate meter isn’t sending any pulses to the board.
I’d check water pressure is ok and failing that , i’d be looking at the flow sensor
Funny you should post that Martin. I had a customer today that was telling me he use’s this stuff for cleaning his car . I thought at first that he had written on the label with a marker pen but it is a genuine product as he said he used to deal with them in his job…..
Does exactly what it says on the tin ( bottle )
Sounds like something could be in the impellor of the wash motor – i’d be checking for bits of plastic/clingfilm in the motor
I wouldn’t call out someone from BSH as its not a fault as such and you would probably end up with a call out charge .
I would give the BSH technical advice line a call 1st . They may be able to help you.
HOWEVER…i think you have the wrong part number. Is your appliance Enr actually SGI46m….and not SG146M ( i not 1 ) because on the spares list , the part number shown for that strip is 434762 although i believe thats a dark brown or black strip.
Is your control panel stainless steel or brown/black ?
You can check out the part numbers on this page by entering your full Enr in the appliance finder box on the lower right hand side. You should be able to get an exploded vew of your appliance and page 1 shows the adjustment strip.
https://www.bosch-eshop.com/eshop(bD1lbiZjPTAwOQ==)/bosch/gb/indexa.htm
Ok , Simeon , thats got me. I haven’t seen one like that !!!
Have you tried sliding the strip , maybe attempting it both ways , up under the protruding edge of the top control panel ?
You’d need to upload them to a photo account , maybe photobucket.com and then link to them on here .
If you look at the pressure chamber picture , you’ll see a hose – no 415 – and in all probability this will be blocked too.
The hose gets blocked and as the water tries to flow through it into the tub it ‘backs up’ , filling the pressure chamber and causing the drain pump to kick in , albeit briefly. The water level in the pressure chamber then drops as water starts flowing again , only for the ‘backing up’ to occur again. This constant switching of the drain pump is causing the knocking noise.
Clean the pressure chamber and hose and this’ll [robably cure your problem.
POWER OFF IF INVESTIGATING
Classic symptons of he flow rate meter failure .
Part No 424099 ( impellor jug – official title )
Won’t be sending the correct signal to board
its the ‘white wheel’ inline of the inlet hose before it reaches the water matrix
Replace it and all should be well
Off the top of my head Simeon , it sounds right. The Dishwasher is , i guess , a semi-intergrated appliance which is an intergrated machine but with the control panel on the front at the top.
Basically , you will see that the control panel ‘juts’ out over the the front panel of the machine ( This is without the decor door fitted !!! ) and the filler strip slides up into this recess below the control panel. You would then fit the decor door and adjust the strip accordingly just by pulling it down into position to remove any gaps
Hope this helps
Sounds like a seized compressor . Does the compressor ‘Buzz’ when its switched on , rather than have the normal compressor noise ?
HOWEVER , don’t panic because If its less than 2 yrs old then its still under warranty . You should book a call with BSH .
The most probable cause is the brushes in the motor….especially if the lack of drum rotation is seemingly the only prob.
When you say it was a grinding noise , would a crackling/scraping noise be more accurate ?
Motor will need to be removed to check brush wear which , when new , would be approx 5 cm long. If they’ve worn right down i.e anything less than approx 0.75cm then replacing them would be the first port of call.
Power off if investigating
