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Don’t think this model has a pressure chamber as it uses a timed fill/level sensor method of water metering.
I’d check the level float/sensor in the sump to see if its bunged up. A good flush through with some hot water is normally enough to clear any muck. If you remove the float , make sure you note which way it came out.
Its located under a little cover in about the 5 o’clock position under the filter plate/water sump.
If its all gunged up and sticky , it may not be rising as the water enters the tub and thus the machine overfills…hence the operation of the flood potection system/mushroom float in short bursts
Re: Bosch WFL246 not spinning – flashing light
Sounds like a slow drain problem –
The appliance won’t spin if its still got water in it so if its slow draining , the higher water level on the rinse cycle means that all the water won’t be drained in time ( it will fault if the drain takes longer than 6 minutes ) The reason it will work when moved onto a spin cycle is that you’re getting extra drain time .
First off , i’d check the drain hose and sink/drain connection for blockages or foreign objects.
To test , let the machine fill on a normal wash cycle – drum empty – and once filled to wash level , turn selector to drain and see how long it takes to drain. Most times you’d expect it to be between 25 – 45 secs .
Power off if investigating
Normally , a failure after 2 secs points to a popped 8a/10a fuse caused by a faulty inverter/control unit .
The fuse will be on the relay board , situated on the top , front left .
The control unit/inverter board is in the black housing on the top at the rear .I have had the odd occasion where just replacing te fuse has been enough with the fault being caused by the customer either the customer opening the door during use or slamming the door closed after interruption of a microwave cycle.
Unfortunately , its normally the whole control unit/inverter board at fault
What happens if you select the drain cycle when there’s water in the appliance ?
Does the water drain ?
Can you hear the pump running or is there just a faint hum coming from the pump ?
Does the drain hose sit in a standpipe or connected under the sink ?Most likely to be the carbon brushes in the motor if everything else seems ok.
Motor will need to be removed to check/replace –
Power off and plug out if you attempt this yourself
Have you noticed any funny grinding noises during the wash cycle recently ? Maybe been slowly getting worse over a few months ?
it could be that the seal in the motor has leaked , allowing water into the motor itself which has then caused the motor shaft/bearings to seize due to corrosion.
Follow The flightless one’s instructions and if you can’t turn the blades on the rear of the motor , then this would be your probable cause.
Drying/end led flashing together means that there is no heat being generated and so the sensor is shutting the appliance down due to no heat .
The most likely cause is the overheat stat popping open circuit –
Have you…..
a – Opened the door during a drying cycle without stopping the cycle first ?
b – Let the fluff in the door filter build up to such a state that it has blocked the air channels , causing an overheat condition ?
c – checked the the vent hose to make sure it’s nice and clear and not kinked/blocked in anyway ?
Any of the above 3 situations could pop the overheat stat .
It could also be a heater element fault but is unlikely on a model so new.
Are you testing the appliance with a load in it ? It will need a damp load to ensure it will actually run a full drying cycle .
Are there any other lights/led’s lit when the programme ends ?
first things first – can you hear the pump running if you re-set the appliance ?
If not , re-check the drain pump carefully.
If it’s running but still not draining , check the drain connection….especially if its connected to your waste under a sink .
Definitely sounds like a valve problem. If you have the ability , you could test all the valves for resistance – they should read between approx 3K – 4K ohms . POWER OFF IF YOU DO THIS
If you find a cold water valve open circuit then this would most definitely be your problem
The gauze/strainer would be in the hose connection
Sorry , Grimalkin , missed this one . Error 3 is a water in-flow/fill problem . It normally means that the machine is not reaching its fill level within a set time.
Can you hear/see water flowing into the appliance via the detergent drawer. You should try starting a 60*/90* cycle and you should see hear hot water flowing into the machine. If this works ok , try starting a 30*/cold cycle and this should fill with cold water. If one of these tests results in no water intake then that narrows down the fault.
possible faults causes could be –low cold or hot water inflow pressure –
blocked strainers in inlet hoses
faulty inlet valve
Blocked pressure chamber ( lower rear on tub )Please power off before investigating deeper
Don’t think the digital clock/display unit will be faulty – PTC sensor is 173668 – £48odd + VAT from BSH if available
I must admit to having never seen one of these ovens as it looks like its got a rectangular rear element….which is a new one on me !!!
Have you been to look at the oven John . I’d be looking at maybe door hinges or slow fan .
Is that number complete John ? Thats a Siemens model number……if its Bosch , it should have a 3rd letter after the HB .
