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Twoten
ParticipantRe: PUBLIC LIABILITY INS QUOTES
arosview wrote:I thought you may be interested, in having a look at http://www.tradesmancover.co.uk/ They give you a choice of insurer, I have just taken mine out with MMA Master Tradesman Plus. 2 million cover with £100 excess for £65.87. (No gas) The excess does vary dependent upon length of time in the trade. The choices are MMA, Fortis, Groupama and Axa.
Thanks for this,
My policy has just come round again for renewal with MMA. Same policy, same excess with the above company £65.87 instead of £101.21 through my broker (the inclusion of £20 administration fee didn’t help).
March 6, 2008 at 10:44 am in reply to: Bosch Dishwasher Not Emptying/Making Bad Clunking Noise #244810Twoten
ParticipantRe: Bosch Dishwasher Not Emptying/Making Bad Clunking Noise
Not necessarily, it could mean the drain pump has a foreign object jambing the impeller, but occasionally the object becomes dislodged and allows the machine to drain.
If the machine made a really bad noise when it was supposed to pump as stated in your original post and failed to drain I would still check the pump for blockages first.
Remember:
If you decide to tackle this make sure the machine is switched off and unplugged first :zap:March 4, 2008 at 3:26 pm in reply to: Bosch Dishwasher Not Emptying/Making Bad Clunking Noise #244808Twoten
ParticipantRe: Bosch Dishwasher Not Emptying/Making Bad Clunking Noise
If you need an engineer http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/search/find-an-appliance-engineer.html is a good place to start.
March 3, 2008 at 8:10 pm in reply to: Bosch Dishwasher Not Emptying/Making Bad Clunking Noise #244806Twoten
ParticipantRe: Bosch Dishwasher Not Emptying/Making Bad Clunking Noise
I would say something small has worked its way past the filters into the pump housing and is being rattled around by the pump impeller.
It’s not unusual to find a piece of glass, tooth pick or small piece of bone causing this.
The only way you can access this is from underneath the machine.
If you decide to tackle this make sure the machine is switched off and unplugged first. :zap:
Twoten
ParticipantRe: Problem with fitting Ariston oven door.
Connect sent out another 2 doors to try but they were the same. I returned these and they sent another which appeared to be from a different batch (packed differently).
All doors had the same problem, as the customer had waited for a few weeks now without an oven I decided had no option but to ‘make it fit’.
I raised the tab where the R/H hinge clips under (which damaged a small section the enamel on the other side of the panel) and elongated the hole in the handle to allow it to sit flush with the top panel.
I find it ridiculous to have to botch a repair to get a genuine part to fit reasonable.
Good old Merloni!
Twoten
ParticipantRe: LG WM10240F Washing Machine handle
It looks like the one, I will email Dave and check.
Thanks,
Keith.
Lucky Goldstar
Twoten
ParticipantRe: Another joke.
“eBayer invites buyers to rip him off”
http://www.theregister.co.uk/2008/02/11/ebay_laptop_auction/
Twoten
ParticipantRe: Electrolux WH2125
All the tests you have done and things you have looked at indicate it may not necessarily be a bearing.
‘Usually’, when you spin the drum by hand you would hear if the bearings are going.
Can you describe the noise you are getting?
Twoten
ParticipantRe: Miele W919 inlet valve faulty?
Thanks for the info clayside,
As the 4622714 valve with the inlet hose is the one not working, as it’s in series with the other inlet valve I won’t be able to confirm which of the valves is playing up until one of them fails again!
This could be fun!!
Twoten
ParticipantRe: Electrolux WH2125
Hi Omage,
Welome to UK Whitegoods.
Play along the bearing access is normal.
Is the machine noisy when you put it into a spin without any load in the drum?
Check to see if the drum has any play in the verticle access 3 times, turning the drum so that the paddle/lifter is at the bottom each time Push the drum back and forth at the bottom.
(*Unplug the machine*)
With the belt removed, is the drum noisy when spun by hand?
February 13, 2008 at 11:20 am in reply to: How long do Hotpoint guarantee their repairs for? #243184Twoten
ParticipantRe: How long do Hotpoint guarantee their repairs for?
By law the repair has to be of a satisfactory standard using parts that are fit for the purpose.
Had a similar problem with a repair on a car done 2 months before the end of the 3 year warranty, 5 months later the dealer said it’s not covered. They decided it would be better to sort the problem out!
Twoten
ParticipantRe: Computer nerd required
I usually build my own but have found not a great deal of difference in price between a DIY PC and the Dell machines and the Dell often get good reviews.
It’s also worth noting if you check the net for comparable machines that are a better price and then call Dell they will negotiate to make a sale.
The biggest problem with the Dell machines is all the *{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}$* demo ware they put on the machine, when you try and remove it the machine falls over. Answer to this though is call them up a couple of days after purchase and complain, if you reinstate the machine with the backup already on the hard drive it will reinstall all the *{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}$* demo ware again so they will send you a CD without all the other rubbish.
If you do go down the road of building your own then check out the bundles at either http://www.Dabs.com or http://www.novatech.co.uk.
Twoten
ParticipantRe: Beko D533 Thermal cut-out.
Thanks Penguin, I’ll order one today.
Twoten
ParticipantRe: Beko D533 Thermal cut-out.
I’m still struggling with this, the original part number is 160100597, I have tried several suppliers including Beko and nobody has them in stock for at least 4 weeks.
The thermo-temp fitted in the oven had a Red end cap, I know these are colour coded for the temperature, does anyone know what the red ended thermo-temp rating is?
Thanks.
Twoten
ParticipantRe: Servis quartz 601 F flashing
Blimey, this is an old one,
If I remember correctly (which would make a change) I think the F1 fault is related to thermistor.
What I suggest is see if the machine heats, if it does then take a close look at the thermistor mounted under the tub at about 7 O’clock. Resistance is not usually a problem with these, what normally caused a problem was the resin the thermistor was set into the plastic with separates and gets a slight air gap so the heat doesn’t transfer. If you look closely you can usually see it, sometimes you can take the resin out of the plastic.
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